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A California Cook Book 



Compiled by 



Sarah M. Williamson 



-sv^^S^* 



"Behold, his breakfasts shine with reputation, 
His dinners are the wonders of the nation. 
With these he treats both commoners and quality 
Who praise, where'er they go, his hospitality." 



'*^S'* = &^ a * 



(COPYRIGHT) 



'Published b$ 

"GOWN TALK 'PRESS 

88 First Street, San Francisco, 1916 



yli 3 



INDEX 

Contributions of Recipes ------ 4 

Foreword ________ 5 

Service Suggestions ------ 7 

Appetizers -------- 8 

Soups and Sauces ------- 9 

Fish, Fresh and Salt -11 

Entrees ---------13 

Punch --------- 14 

Flesh, Fowl and Game - - - - - -15 

The Economical Hamburger ----- 20 

Rice ---------- 21 

Vegetables -------- 22 

Salad Dressing ------- 25 

Omelets and Accompaniment 27 

Puddings and Pudding Sauces 28 

Fancy Desserts -------31 

Pies and Fillings - - - -- - -32 

Cakes and Fillings for Cakes - - - * - 33 
Cookies, Doughnuts and "Snaps" 39 

Hot Cakes and Waffles ------ 41 

Luncheon Dishes -------42 

Favorite "Kosher" Dishes ----- 43 

Cheese Dishes -- 44 

'Canned" Dishes - 44 

Bread, Biscuits, etc. - 45 

For the Pantry - i F -f\ 47 



1 
CI.A453900 



•■■';■ 



FEB -2 1317 



RECIPES BY 



Mrs. Joseph Steinhart 

Mrs. John Magee 

Mrs. Carl William Martin 

Mrs. Calvert Meade 

Mrs. Meredith Sawyer 

Mrs. Charles Lincoln 

Mrs. M. L. B. Smith 

Mrs. George Albert Bromley 

Mrs. Edward F. Smith 

Mrs. Larry Gossig Mayo 

Mrs. Edward Ray Bromley 

Mrs. Charles Edgar Longton 

Mrs. H. H. Powell 

Mrs. F. B. Jansen 

Miss Angelica Bromley 

Mrs. Hortense Steinhart 

Russell 

Mrs. Roy N. Roach 

Mrs. John Sandford 

Miss Irma S. Bromley 

Mrs. Thomas E. Longton 

Mrs. H. S. Whittard 

Mrs. R. C. Burling 

Mrs. F. G. Irving 

Miss Lily K. Slinkey 

(Durini) 
Dr. Clara M. Freeman 

Mrs. Gus Moose 

Mrs. L. F. Stevens 

Mrs. Francis Ghiselli 

Mrs. F. C. Luck 

Mrs. C. O. Cunningham 

Mrs. Amos Pylman 

Miss Sarah Connell 

Mrs. Ella Sterling Mighels 

Mrs. Nelson Page 

Mrs. Albert Morath 

Mrs. John Parke Brownlee 

Mrs. Gilmour Van Wagenen 

Mrs. Greenfield-McDonald 

Mrs. Charles A. Allen 



Mrs. William Key worth 
Mrs. S. Secord 
Mrs. F. X. Bentz 
Mrs. Robert Barker 
Miss Rose Mahony 
Miss Florence Byington 
Mrs. Walter A. Scott 
Miss Anna Campbell 
Miss Letitia Flanagan 
Miss Marie Lucile Pyle 
Miss Seba Rixon 
Mrs. W. J. McCarthy 
Mrs. Joseph Nesbitt 
Mrs. George Alfred Sellery 
Raphael Weill 
George W. Yost 
Fred Bromley Jansen 
Thornwell Mullally 
Thomas J. McCann 
William J. Taffinder 
Dr. J. Wilson Shiels 
Judge Frank Kerrigan 
Elliott Crews Jennings 
Jack London 
Allan Miner 
Meredith Sawyer 
Robert Trevor 

And the late 

Colonel Isaac Trumbo 

J. C. Wilson 

George T. Bromley 

Col. H. I. Kowalsky 

Henry Clay Smith 

Mrs. J. Allan Munro 

Mrs. Augustus Chasy Doan 

(Viva Cummins) 
Mrs. Franklin Poore 
Mrs. Grace E. Smith 
Henry J. Crocker 
Mrs. L. M. Barnett 



A California Cook Book 



FOREWORD 



IT was a Frenchman who said that we only 
eat to live when we do not comprehend how 
to live to eat. Brillat Savarin dubbed Gas- 
teria "tenth and fairest of the muses." De la 
Rochefoucauld told us that "good thoughts pro- 
ceed from the stomach," and Thomas Walker 
called cooking "one of the most important of our 
temporal concerns." Another philosopher ad- 
vised us not to look too far backward or for- 
ward, since life is so brief, but in order to be 
happy to fix our happiness in our glass and on 
our plate. "Cooking," wrote Yuan Mei, a 
Chinese chef of the eighteenth century, "is like 
matrimony. Two things served together should 
match. Clear should go with clear, hard with 
hard, soft with soft. Into no department of life 
should indifference creep — into none less than 
into the domain of cookery.'" 

Cookery is the poetry of housework. 

"She's a miserable cook," I have heard num- 
bers of women remark, of a friend or relative 
whose cookery has been sampled and failed to 
make a good impression. More than often this 
slur has been unjust, the caustic criticism 
coming from a "provincial" mind that can see 
but from the one viewpoint. Because a person 
cooks in a manner we ourselves do not approve 
need not be proof that she is an inferior culinary 
artist. Few women cannot cook at least a few 
things well, and just because you (or I) do not 
fall in love with her concoctions is no proof 
that they are "poor stuff." 

It is my own opinion that any woman can 
become at least a near-chef if she cares to take 
the trouble to master the art of cookery, from its 
alphabet to the collegiate degrees. With a cook- 
book and a little common sense there is no dif- 
ficulty that cannot be surmounted. Of course 
there are the "born cooks" who with a glass of 
water, a leather sole and a dash of seasoning can 
make a tasty broth, but common sense applied 
to the cook-book may achieve almost the same 
masterly result from the "made cook." At this 
day, every woman enjoys doing a little of her 
own cooking. Not to know anything about the 
interior of one's kitchen is regarded as rather 
stupid, instead of stamping the lady-of-the- 
house as an aristocrat. 



A California Cook Book 



All of the recipes appearing in this book were 
personally obtained, and nearly every one has 
been tasted, or tested, by the compiler. The 
recipes of prominent clubmen were obtained 
about three years ago for an article on our 
famous amateur chefs, which appeared in "The 
Morning Call," and I have taken the opportun- 
ity to preserve them here in more permanent 
and convenient form than newspaper columns 
could offer. Colonel Kowalsky, Colonel Trumbo, 
Henry J. Crocker, John C. Wilson and others 
have passed away since the publication of the 
article, making the preservation of their cul- 
inary creations more important. The recipes 
of the late George T. Bromley were obtained 
from one of his daughters. Mr. Weill permitted 
M. Georges Tessier, onetime Bohemian Club 
chef, and who possesses all of Mr. Weill's price- 
less recipes, to copy for me one or two for the 
"Call" article. Mrs. Ella Sterling Mighels gave 
me the recipes of her daughter, the late Mrs. 
Doan of New York, and of her sister, the late 
Mrs. Poore. The "kosher dishes" were given 
by a popular restaurateur whose cafe near the 
old Merchants' Exchange was frequented (be- 
fore the 1906 fire destroyed it) by all the prom- 
inent epicures of the San Francisco business 
world The recipes were published as part of 
an article on "The Significance of Kosher" 
which appeared in "The Call" of Easter, 1906. 
None of the other recipes has ever appeared 
before in print; all of them are "patented," one 
might say, by their creators or adaptors. 

Sarah Williamson. 
San Francisco, 

October, 1916. 



The first cook book was published in 1390, "The Forme of 
Cury" by Pegge. The "Widdowe's Treasure" came out in 
1625. Filippini, Parloa, Dreyse, De Salis and Colombie all 
published cook books that have had a vogue more or less 
pronounced. 



A California Cook Book 



Btvrntt §uggeflit0tt0 

WHILE many still adhere to the old form of serv- 
ing a dinner — soup, salad, fish, entree, roast, 
dessert, coffee, cheese, fruit — the more favored 
way of late has been to begin with a fruit appetizer. 
Grape fruit is popular, either with the bath of wine and 
the cherry atop, or plain. Banana or pineapple, with 
mayonnaise, is a popular appetizer. Melons are probably 
the most highly favored in the season. A musk melon 
makes a delicious appetizer, and watermelon is even 
more appetizing. Cut the watermelon in large dice, 
lay these in a leaf of lettuce, and serve with mayonnaise. 
Melons, which used to be invariably served as dessert, 
are now almost universally used as appetizers, at any 
meal. "When fruit appetizers are not liked, a pimento 
or anchovy sandwich, the dainty slices of bread toasted, 
or a tiny sardelle or sardine sandwich, makes an excel- 
lent start for the formal dinner. These can be pre- 
ceded by cocktails, or not, just as the host or hostess 
prefers. When a fancy salad is served as appetizer, 
it is usual to serve another salad, preferably a green 
salad, with toasted cheese crackers, before the dessert. 
Dinners nowadays are much more enjoyable than the 
old-fashioned heavy meals, for the alternation of dishes 
not only delights the palate but the eye. Fish dinners 
are exceedingly popular with amateur chefs. Clams, 
oysters, mussels as appetizers; a fish or clam chowder; 
shrimp or crab salad; creamed tuna or salmon as entree; 
any kind of fish for the piece de resistance; and two 
vegetables, with the potatoes ; the garden salad ; and 
a dainty fruit dessert, with coffee and cheese. A 
satisfactory dinner can be given with a menu entirely 
of vegetarian dishes. 



"Do it now" is a splendid rule. If you fill the sugar-bowl 
when you notice it is nearly empty it will save a less convenient 
step later on. 

A meal well served is twice as enjoyable as one placed upon 
the table "any old way." 

Spotless tablecloth and napkins add to the pleasure taken 
in a meal. 

Form at a table has its place, but remember not to place 
form before the motif of your being at the table. Worry at 
violating a rule of etiquette spoils the digestion, and takes 
away joy in the dishes. 

Give your guests what they like to eat and drink, served in 
the manner they enjoy, rather than the things you think they 
should like, in the manner you yourself prefer — if you wish 
to win popularity as a hostess. If your wish is to be known as 
a wonderful chef, then cook your own preferences, in your 
own way. 

It is better to smash a cup or plate occasionally and make a 
little stir than to move on so noiselessly all the time that 
no one knows you are there. 

A contemporary of Rossini said, "An overturned salt cellar 
is only to be feared when overturned in a good dish," which 
is a good thing for the superstitious to remember. 



A California Cook Book 



KppttxzttB 



A Perfect Cocktail (George W. Yost) 

Half a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, a lump of ice in 
glass, one or two dashes of Peychaud Creole bitters, a 
dash of orange bitters, equal parts of Hennessy brandy 
and Italian vermouth. Stir well. Take out ice. Squeeze 
orange peel. 

When a sour cocktail is preferred the mixologist must 
use lemon instead of orange and omit the sugar. For 
those who cannot stand a strong mixture, the brandy can 
be left out. But the art of this cocktail is in the mixing, 
which requires the hand of an expert. 

Marrow Toast (Col. Isaac Trumbo) 

Brown the toast. Fry marrow; cut in squares. Place 
on toast, with a squeeze of lemon juice and paprika for 
seasoning. Serve. 

Melons Hawaiian Style (Fred Bromley Jansen) 

Cut the muskmelons in halves; across, not along the 
division lines. Remove seeds and fill hollows with fresh 
peaches, apricots, oranges, bananas and pineapple cut in 
very small pieces. Sprinkle with sugar and heap high, 
placing a maraschino cherry on top. To make more at- 
tractive cut the melons like baskets with part of the 
upper shell as handle, and twine sweet peas and maiden- 
hair about the handle. When merely intended as an 
appetizer for an informal dinner, omit the decorations 
and fill only with the cut-up fruit. If preferred, only 
pineapple, oranges and bananas may be used as the 
filling. 



You cannot always guarantee recipes in other hands than 
those of the creators. They often fail, and this is generally 
because the copyist does not follow the recipe exactly. Saving 
^out an egg, or using half water for all milk, omitting the 
called-for seasoning — the dish turn out all wrong, and the 
recipe is blamed for what is not its fault. 



Minucius to his troops: "Soldiers, 1 have often heard that 
the best man is he who can tell himself what is the right thing; 
then comes he who listens to good advice; and that he who 
cannot advise himself nor submit to another has the meanest 
capacity of all." True in the kitchen, as in the battlefield. 



A California Cook Book 



IN these days when one can buy such delicious soups 
in cans, it is scarcely worth while to bother with soup 
made in the old-fashioned, laborious way. But very 
fine soups, and much more tasty than any other kind, 
can be made from odds and ends of meat, chop or steak 
bones, bits of veal cutlet, etc., with any vegetables that 
are left over from a meal. A few peas, string beans, a 
carrot, an onion, mixed with the left over meat scraps, 
and boiled with macaroni or rice or barley, with plenty 
of seasoning, make a nutritious and palatable soup. The 
water in which certain vegetables are cooked makes ex- 
cellent basis for creamed soups — bisques. Potato, onion, 
asparagus or artichoke water is a very tasty basis for 
a bisque. 

Onion Soup with Cheese (Thornwell Mullaly) 

Slice fine four large white onions; put in a stewpan 
with four ounces of butter, stir and fry slowly until soft- 
ened and slightly browned; besprinkle with two ounces 
of flour; dilute with a quart of beef broth and a quart of 
water; add salt and pepper and boil 10 minutes. Mean- 
while cut in thin slices and dry in the oven about four 
ounces of French bread ; have a well buttered soup 
tureen, bestrew with grated Parmesan cheese, put in 
layer of bread, sprinkle grated cheese over ; add two 
more layers of each, finishing with the cheese; pour the 
boiling soup over, put in oven and have the top of soup 
and bread browned, and serve. (This quantity is for 
eight persons.) 

Lizzie's Onion Soup (Mrs. Carl William Martin) 

Cut an onion into small pieces and fry on hot pan with 
butter until brown. Use a very small piece of butter. 
Fry some bread cut in small dice, in pan with the onion. 
When well browned place in soup pot and cover with 
water sufficient for four plates of soup. This is a fine 
soup and easily prepared. The bread makes just the 
proper thickening. This soup can be served with tiny 
German dumplings if desired. 

Potato Soup (Irma S. Bromley, Concord, California) 

Three potatoes, 1 quart milk, 2 slices onion, 4 table- 
spoons butter, 2 tablespoons flour, \ l / 2 teaspoons salt, 
l /4 teaspoon celery salt, % teaspoon pepper, 1 pound 
chopped parsley, 2 pounds chopped celery. Cook pota- 
toes in boiling water, and when soft run through 
strainer. Scald milk with onion and celery in double 
boiler. Melt Yz cup butter, rub in dry ingredients. Stir 
until well mixed and add slowly a small portion of 
milk. Add this to potatoes. Cook one minute and pour 
over remainder of butter and chopped parsley. 

Potato and Onion Soup (Mrs. John Magee, Millbrae) 

Four potatoes, 4 onions, water; 2 tablespoons flour, 2 
tablespoons butter, 1 pint milk, 1 teaspoon chopped 
parsley. Cook potatoes and onions in water sufficient 
to cover them. When tender, pass through sieve. Re- 



10 A California Cook Book 



serve the water they were cooked in to help the process ; 
blend butter and flour together and add milk. Stir until 
boiling and then add the pulp. Season with salt and 
pepper and add parsley when serving. 

A Good Soup (S. W.) 

Ten cents beef for soup, with a veal bone. Add onion, 
carrot, parsley and a piece of celery, with a bay leaf if 
wished. Add barley, sago or rice enough to thicken. 
Cook until every ingredient is well blended. If strained 
this makes delicious bouillon, served either hot or cold, 
with slice of lemon. The seasoning should be to taste — 
pepper, salt, paprika and Worcestershire sauce (not too 
much of the sauce). 

White Sauce (Mrs. Calvert Meade, Oakland) 

This is always my base for gravies — chicken, turkey or 
game — in proportion of 1 tablespoon butter to 1 table- 
spoon flour, worked to a cream. Add a glass of cream 
(or milk, if it is not desired quite so rich). If a heaping 
tablespoon of butter and flour are used a pint of cream 
is required. 

Egg Crumbs for Soup (Mrs. Magee) 

One cup flour, 1 egg, 2 tablespoons water, salt and 
pepper. Sift flour, salt and pepper; beat egg just enough 
to blend the yolk and white together. Use it with the 
water to moisten flour. Turn on floured board and knead 
thoroughly, working in as much dry flour as possible so 
that a very stiff dough is formed. Let this stand for 
one-half hour, then grate on a coarse grater. Let crumbs 
so formed remain spread out until they dry a little. Two 
tablespoons or more can be cooked in any soup or 
bouillon that is to be served. Allow the remainder of 
the crumbs to dry thoroughly and store them away for 
future use. They will keep for some time. 



Esau sold his birthright for a mess of red pottage of lentils. 
Perhaps Esau was the first epicure. 



Don't lie about any omission; the lie will prove the omission 
or transgression to be one. If the seasoning was forgotten, 
say so. 



A California Cook Book 11 



Brandade of Salt Codfish, Brandade de Morne 
(Raphael Weill) 

TO make this dish successfully only first-class codfish 
can be used. Soak two pound-cans of boneless cod- 
fish in cold water for 24 hours. Place in a saucepan 
well covered with cold water (no salt). Let it come to 
boiling point. Cover the saucepan and keep on the cor- 
ner of the range, so it continues to cook without boiling, 
about 15 or 20 minutes. By this method the codfish re- 
mains tender. While the codfish is cooking place a quart 
of best California olive oil in a bain marie to keep warm. 
Strain the codfish, first removing skin and bones if any, 
and crush in a mortar. This must be done very quickly 
for the codfish must not be cold, if possible. Take a 
copper saucepan, tinned inside. Pour in a little of the 
oil, also two or three cloves of garlic, crushed fine. Put 
on the fire, stirring with a wooden spoon. Add the cod- 
fish and work together thoroughly. Add more oil slowly, 
about a fifth of the bottle, and about three spoonsful of 
thick cream, working ceaselessly. Again put more oil, 
same proportion, the cream, until the whole quart of 
oil and one pint of cream are used. Add two-thirds of a 
pint of fresh plain mashed potatoes, rubbed through a 
very fine sieve. Season with cayenne pepper to taste and 
finish with a garnish of truffles peeled and heated in a 
little sherry. Serve hot. (This quantity is for 10 persons.) 

Be careful not to let it take to the bottom of the sauce- 
pan. It must be worked on a modest fire, moving the 
saucepan in the meantime so as to distribute the heat 
equally. 



Baked Sea Bass (J. C. Wilson) 

Clean fish thoroughly. Dry with napkin. Lay in 
large fish baking pan, with plenty of butter on pan. Salt 
and pepper the fish to taste, and also put butter on the 
fish. Bake 15 minutes in moderate oven. After 15 min- 
utes add one cup of California or Olympia oysters and 
one cup of fresh shrimps, with one cup of sherry over all. 
Season with salt, pepper and paprika. Bake 15 minutes 
longer, basting at times. Garnish with chopped parsley 
and lemon. Serve. Halibut is also delicious cooked this 
way, or any large white fish. 

Fish Chowder (George T. Bromley) 

Any kind of large white fish can be used — halibut, cod, 
sea bass or barracuda. Cut the fish in large cubes and 
some salt pork in small cubes. Fry out the pork into 
"scraps." Take a quart of milk, let it come to a boil and 
set on back of stove. Lay a few large hardtack crackers 
at bottom of soup kettle, and on this place a layer of 
fish, then a layer of onions, then potatoes cut in cubes. 
Season well with salt, cloves and pepper and pour a can 
of tomatoes over all. Then cover with cold water and 
let it come to a boil. When fish is done, the vegetables 
will also be ready, and the milk may be added. As soon 
as the boiled milk and the rest of the chowder are 
assimilated, the chowder is ready to serve. 



12 A California Cook Book 



Steamed Fish (Mrs. Magee) 

Any kind of large fish, such as halibut, salmon, etc., 
can be cooked in this manner. Put a tablespoon of 
butter in pot; roll fish in flour; when the latter is hot 
put in layers with celery chopped fine. Cover and cook 
on a slow fire. Do not add any water, but when done 
add juice of one lemon and serve. 

Codfish, New England Style (Mrs. M. L. B. Smith, San 
Francisco) 

Soak the codfish a few hours, then parboil and throw 
off the water. Boil again, pick and extract the bones. 
Have potatoes boiled in jackets, but serve them peeled. 
Have a bowl of pork "scraps" ready to serve piping hot 
in the dripping. Make a sauce of milk, butter well sea- 
soned and hard boiled eggs chopped fine. The New 
England way of enjoying codfish thus served is to mix 
up fish and potatoes and pour over it the sauce, with 
pork scraps on top of all. 

Delicious Creamed Codfish (Mrs. Larry Gossig Mayo, 
Honolulu, H. I.) 

Melt a tablespoon of butter in double boiler; add a 
tablespoon of flour; cook together until smooth, stirring 
constantly. Then add a cup of milk and stir until it 
comes to a boil. Take 2 cups of codfish, shredded into 
small pieces, and wash in several waters to freshen thor- 
oughly. Pour cold water over fish and let it come to a 
boil. Drain. Add the cream and some white pepper and 
cook about 10 minutes. Serve on buttered toast. 

Salmon Loaf (Mrs. Roy N. Roach, St. Helena) 

One can salmon, minced and with bones removed ; 4 
or 5 crackers and 3 slices of bread-crusts rolled fine; 
milk enough to soften; 1 egg, Yi teaspoon each of sage, 
pepper and salt. Form in loaf and place pieces of butter 
on top. Bake in oven about one-half hour. 

Salmon with Rice, Scotch Fashion (Anna Campbell, 
Oakland) 

Boil about y 2 cup rice in water. Shred a can of salmon 
and when the rice is cooked mix the salmon with it and 
season with plenty of pepper and salt to taste. Cover 
with cracker crumbs and bake about one-half hour in 
steady oven. When ready to serve place slices of hard 
boiled egg on top. This dish is good either hot or cold. 

Boiled Fish Balls (Mrs. Magee) 

Two slices salmon, 2 slices halibut or sturgeon, 1 large 
onion, 1 tablespoon flour. Chop fish and onion fine and 
add flour. Mix all together. Have boiling water ready, 
with tablespoon of salt. Drop a tablespoon at a time of 
the mixture into the water and boil 10 minutes. Serve 
with melted butter. 



The Emperor Domitian called a cabinet meeting to decide 
whether a fish should be minced or cooked in a special dish. 
When the cabinet had settled the question, Domitian did not 
even ask them to partake of the fish, but dismissed them. 



A California Cook Book 13 



lEttimfi 



Frogs' Legs (Raphael Weill) 

CUT the legs of a dozen large sized frogs in two. 
Season them with salt, pepper and a little grated 
nutmeg. Fry them in butter with shallots chopped 
very fine (on a quick fire) ; add a small glass of sauterne 
and same quantity of chicken stock; reduce until nearly 
dry ; add half a pint of light cream and a small ladle of 
Bechamel. Let it simmer slowly for 15 minutes. Put in a 
tablespoonful of chopped olives and a dash of tabasco. 
When nearly ready to serve thicken with three yolks of 
eggs diluted with a little cream and two ounces of sweet 
butter cut into small pieces. Toss the whole mixture to 
amalgamate it perfectly, and serve small puff paste crust 
as garnish (flemons). 

Do not let it boil after thickening, or it will curdle. 
Do not stir with a spoon. The only way is gently to toss 
the whole mixture and turn the saucepan on the side of 
the range. 

Calf's Liver a la King Leopold (Col. H. I. Kowalsky) 

Pick out nice young liver, about 5 pounds, and have 
skin taken off" and the center of the liver cut out. To 
prepare, have the center ground up in meat grinder or 
chopped very fine. Then add to this 2 cups of oven dried 
bread crumbs, paprika, pepper, salt, a pinch of ground 
ginger, one green pepper very finely chopped or grated, 
one clove of garlic mashed fine and four sprigs of 
chopped parsley. Add two well beaten eggs to the other 
ingredients. Stuff this dressing in the center of the liver. 
Cook in Dutch oven. Put in one-half cup of chicken or 
goose fat in saucepan, with one browned onion. Then 
lay the liver as prepared In the pan, and cover. Let it 
simmer slowly about 15 minutes, and add gradually 
about a pint of oxtail soup. Serve. 

Shad Roe, Pius IX (Thomas J. McCann) 

Put in chafing dish a piece of butter. When melted 
cover bottom with sliced peeled tomatoes, salt, pepper 
and chopped parsley ; then lay the roe on top of toma- 
toes, add one-half cup of good dry Rhine wine and one- 
half cup of chicken broth. Salt and pepper the roe, add 
little chopped shervil and one slice of very fine chopped 
up Virginia ham. Slice a good sized truffle and put on 
top. Cover the chafing dish and let simmer for 40 min- 
utes. Serve zweiback with it. 

Soft Shell Clams, Waldorf (Mrs. Meade) 

Open as many soft shell clams as wanted, throwing 
away the hard part and keeping nothing but the body. 
Place the clams back in the half shell. Add a little 
sweet butter, two drops lemon juice, and sprinkle over 
clams a little paprika or a little finely chopped parsley. 
Cover the clams with a slice of bacon about one-half inch 
long. Place clams in oven to bake for 5 to 6 minutes. 
Serve very hot. 

Toke point oysters prepared on stove, omitting the 
bacon, and in place of the lemon use a few drops of 



14 A California Cook Book 



white wine or sherry, can be served under the title 
Toke Point Oysters Yukuina. 

Crab Souffle (Mrs. Meade) 

Make one pint of rich cream sauce. Add the yolks of 
three eggs. Beat well. Add a dash of cayenne and a 
cupful of grated cheese. Add one pint of crab meat 
finely picked. Fold in the whites of the eggs well beaten. 
Pour into a baking dish and bake in a quick oven. Serve 
in same dish. 

Corn and Tamales (Mrs. Edward Ray Bromley, Berkeley) 

Take one can of corn and two of canned tamales, or 
one-half of corn and one tamale. Season with catsup, 
grated cheese, paprika and kitchen bouquet, with pepper 
and salt to taste. Bake in casserole until browned on top. 

Chipped Beef en Souffle (Mrs. E. R. Bromley) 

Scald the beef (any quantity desired). Take a cup of 
milk and thicken with flour, beating in yolks of two eggs 
when boiling. When ready to serve, beat in egg whites. 
Do not cook the whites. 

Raisin Fritters (Mrs. Meade) 

One cup rice, y 2 cup flour, y 2 teaspoon baking powder 
in flour, milk sufficient to soften, salt, 2 eggs beaten 
separately. Grate the rind of y 2 lemon ; y 2 cup Sultana 
raisins. Cook in frying oil. 

Liver Dumplings (Mrs. Magee) 

Two eggs, % cup butter, y 2 pound liver, *4 pound fat, 
\y 2 cup bread crumbs, chopped parsley, white herbs, 
salt and pepper. Chop liver and bacon together, raw, as 
fine as possible. Beat eggs light, add butter, then add 
meat, seasoning and crumbs, adding more crumbs if 
necessary. This will depend on the softness or dryness 
of the crumbs and the size of eggs. The mixture should 
be stiff enough to make a paste of the proper consistency 
to form into balls. Divide into portions; roll smooth in 
hands. Poach in boiling water. Cook about 15 minutes. 



PUNCH 

(Mrs. Charles Edgar Longton) 

Ten cups sugar, 7 l / 2 cups water. Boil twenty-five 
minutes. Three cans pineapple, \y 2 gallons white wine, 
3 dozen limes, 1 pint rum, 1 pint sherry or champagne, 
1 bottle maraschino cherries. 



Louis VI created a cold pate of larks which is said to have 
been delicious. 



A California Cook Book 15 



JHlral}, Jfatul nnb (Burnt 

Gigot of Lamb, Lilianne (Raphael Weill) 

PARE nicely a leg of yearling lamb. Cut off the 
knuckle bone at the handle. Remove about two 
inches of meat lightly with the blade of a cleaver. 
Lard the leg with pieces of goose liver (foies gras au 
naturel), cut half an inch square and full length of liver, 
in this way penetrating the meat lengthwise, using a 
large size larding needle. This must be done carefully, 
larding as closely as possible, to have the leg of lamb 
thoroughly stuffed with the goose liver. Place the leg of 
lamb in a braising pan, seasoned with salt. Baste with 
one-half pound clarified butter. Put it in a hot oven 
for about 30 minutes, basting five or six times and turn- 
ing the leg to prevent coloring too much on one side. 
Garnish with four French carrots, two large onions, four 
leeks, four stalks of celery (all sliced), a handful of 
parsley, six bay leaves, sprig of thyme, two cloves of 
garlic, a pinch of whole mace, a teaspoonful of allspice 
and a small handful of whole white pepper. Add one 
quart bottle of good sherry and one quart good chicken 
and beef stock, two calves' feet, boned and blanched. 
(To blanch calves' feet, put same in a saucepan, well 
covered with cold water, and a small handful of salt. 
Bring it to a boil for about three minutes and refresh in 
cold water.) Cover the braising pan, bringing it to a 
boil, and cook slowly, simmering in a warm oven for 
about two hours until the meat is very tender. Remove 
from fire and take cover off. Put aside to allow cooling 
for an hour. Put the leg of lamb in a deep china dish, 
strain the gravy through a fine strainer and a second 
time through a cheese cloth. Remove the fat thoroughly 
and cover the leg over with the gravy. Let it cool and 
place in the ice box, to be served the next day. If it 
is intended for a formal dinner, the gravy should be 
clarified, proceeding as if for aspic jelly, the leg nicely 
trimmed, then covered with five or six coatings of jelly 
in a nearly cold setting. Make a design of truffles repre- 
senting a lady's picture and the name "Lilianne" within 
the truffles, cover again with jelly and serve on flat 
dishes and garnish with cut up jelly. A frill on the 
handle must be carved thin and across the meat. 

The braising pan must not be too large, so as to allow 
the leg of lamb to be nearly covered by the stock. At- 
tention must be taken to turn the leg over three or four 
times during the braising. 

Jowl a la Mode, Cold (Colonel Kowalsky) 

This takes four jowls (calves' head) with vegetables, 
plenty of carrots and onions and a little garlic. Cook 
over a slow fire, add tripe, place in jar in cool place. 
Serve cold. 

Veal Cutlets, Italian Style (Lily K. Slinkey, "Durini") 

Dry the cutlets, then dip in cream (canned preferred), 
seasoned with pepper, salt, savory, thyme and a dash of 
garlic. Then dip in flour and fry in olive oil with one- 
third butter, until brown. Garnish with lime and red 
pepper. 



16 A California Cook Book 



Veal Cutlet en Casserole (S. W.) 

First brown the veal well in piping hot pan with a 
little olive oil. When the veal is rather well done, but 
not too brown, place it in casserole. Make a gravy in 
frying pan, with browned flour, butter and water, or a 
cream gravy. Pour gravy on meat, with a little onion, 
chopped parsley and a bay leaf, and plenty of seasoning 
(pepper, salt, paprika if wished, and a rub of garlic). 
Place in oven until ready to serve. In about one-half 
hour this dish is usually done. The veal should be thor- 
oughly cooked, but with the consistency and flavor of a 
broiler. 



Beef a la Mode (Mrs. F. X. Bentz) 

Four pounds of bottom round. Make incision in the 
beef with a sharp knife, fill these incisions with long thin 
pieces of salt pork or bacon. Let beef stand overnight 
in one pint of white wine or claret; season wine with 
cloves or allspice. Soak also with beef four whole onions 
pierced with cloves, sliced carrots and turnips (cut tur- 
nips in halves). Next day add more wine, or water, if 
required. Boil slowly over a very low flame ; 20 minutes 
before beef is ready to serve, add whole potatoes. Re- 
move vegetables as soon as they are cooked. Return 
them in time to warm up. 

Leg of Mutton, English Style, Fireless Cooker Fashion 
(Mrs. F. C. Luck, Colfax) 

Peel some potatoes and place in lower steamer pan. 
Parboil some onions and place in second steamer pan. 
Salt and pepper the meat and place on top of vegetable 
pans. Use no water. Cover the steamer or pot in which 
meat and vegetables are set, and cook in steady oven for 
about three hours. Remove meat and vegetables, and 
with the dripping at bottom of pan make a rich brown 
gravy. The grease will have been absorbed by the vege- 
tables, without spoiling their flavor, and the meat will be 
found to have absorbed the onion flavor without over- 
doing it. 

This is a very wholesome way to cook venison and 
any kind of meat that is usually pot-roasted or boiled in 
the ordinary way. Pork is nice in this way, with dress- 
ing placed with onions. A tough chicken is greatly im- 
proved cooked in this manner. 

Lamb Stew with Dumplings (Mrs. L. F. Stevens) 

Cut some salt pork into dice and place in a stew pot 
with an onion, some chopped parsley and a garlic clove. 
When thoroughly browned and the fat melted, put in 
the meat and let it brown. When the lamb is browned 
add a little water, as for a pot roast, and let it simmer, 
adding water from time to time until the meat is tender. 
A green pepper can be added if liked. After the meat is 
thoroughly done, add water for the gravy, plenty of 
seasoning (pepper and salt), and when ready for it, 
thicken with flour dissolved in cold water. If it is de- 
sired to have the potatoes served in the stew, add these 
about one-half hour before serving time. 

The dumplings are made in the usual way with flour 
and water with a little baking powder. Drop them into 



A California Cook Book 17 



the boiling gravy with a teaspoon. Cover tightly and 
let steam about 15 minutes. 

Not only lamb, but chicken, beef, kidneys or any de- 
sired stew meat can be cooked in this way. But when 
beef is used, carrots improve the flavor, and celery for 
a chicken stew. Serve on a large platter with the dump- 
lings as a border. 

Plain Steak (Mrs. Hortense Steinhart Russell) 

This manner of cooking a beefsteak is not difficult and 
is invariably successful. Heat an iron frying pan redhot 
and then clap the steak thereon. After it is seared 
brown on one side, quickly turn it and sear the other 
side. Have a platter ready, heated thoroughly, and on 
this a little garlic, and a few drops of Worcestershire 
sauce. As soon as the steak is done, place it on this 
prepared platter and serve at once with chopped parsley 
sprinkled over it. 

Salt Rub Steak (Mrs. Charles Edgar Longton) 

Rub salt well into both sides of meat and place in pan 
with a little water in a very hot oven. When steak is 
browned on one side, turn and brown the other side. 
Serve very hot. This steak is delicious, the juice just 
running out of it when cut. 

Fried steak is not to be despised. Cut in rather small 
pieces, flour and fry. Serve on bread or toast as a sand- 
wich. Excellent for after-theatre suppers. 

i 
Roast Wild Goose (Durini) 

Wash the goose thoroughly in salt water, dry and 
then season inside and outside with salt and pepper and 
rub with garlic, butter and olive oil inside and outside. 
Make a dressing of three-fourths loaf of bread previously 
soaked in water, allowing it to become dry ; one-third 
mashed green apples, two raw eggs, two onions, two 
tablespoons Parmesan cheese, salt, pepper, pinch of 
ginger, savory, thyme and cayenne. Put a little olive 
oil in a hot roasting pan and roast until done. Baste 
with oil. Goose cooked in this way is simply perfect, 
the olive oil taking away all the "wild" flavor. 

Squabs, Italian Style (Durini) 

This takes three squabs. Split the squabs and quarter 
them, after which wash and dry. Fry in two-thirds olive 
oil and one-third butter, with a mashed clove of garlic. 
When brown add a head of thin celery cut in finger 
lengths and put in enough olive oil to simmer and remain 
on back of stove, allowing the celery to become tender. 
Add salt and pepper and pinch of thyme, sage, nutmeg 
and savory. Serve on toast. 

Chicken Saltato con fungi (Durini) 

Fry a young chicken in two-thirds olive oil and one- 
third butter, with a dash of garlic. Put in a stewpot 
with a little butter and oil, heat and drop in chicken, 
when fried adding the gravy to the pan. Then add a can 



18 A California Cook Book 



of ripe olives, first draining off the water and washing 
the olives in fresh water before placing in pot. Then add 
a can of French imported mushrooms, liquor and all. 
(Dried mushrooms can be used, if first soaked, or fresh 
mushrooms added at last moment, first cooking). Put 
in a little thyme, sage, savory, black and red pepper, salt 
and nutmeg, and small can of tomatoes, one fresh 
tomato and one-half glass red wine. When tender serve 
on toast. 

Chicken Fricassee with Noodles (Mrs. Joseph Steinhart) 

Select a large, fat hen. After thoroughly cleaning and 
singeing, cut off wings and neck. Then separate the 
breast. If large, cut in two. Cut the back in two pieces, 
lengthwise. Soak in water a short time ; drain and thor- 
oughly dry. When ready to cook take off all the fat 
you have removed from the chicken, together with two 
or three tablespoonfuls of the best olive oil and lay in 
bottom of the kettle — Dutch oven — and when hot brown 
each piece of chicken quickly. Remove as soon as 
brown ; season with salt, pepper, pinch of ginger, paprika 
and a little dry mustard, two whole cloves, two allspice, 
a little kitchen bouquet. Replace again in kettle, cover 
tightly and cook very slowly. Now add chopped parsley 
and a small quantity of French carrots minced as fine as 
possible, three or four finely minced lettuce leaves, one 
onion and one-half clove garlic. These are added after 
the chicken has been seasoned and placed in the kettle 
to simmer. It takes 2^4 to 3 hours for the chicken to 
cook; must cook slowly and turn occasionally. When 
tender skim off all fat and add about one cupful of boil- 
ing water. Let simmer while preparing gravy, which is 
made by taking one tablespoon of the dripping and one 
of olive oil. Place in skillet, add one heaping tablespoon 
of flour, and brown. Add gravy from chicken gradually 
and when it thickens add pint of milk, and same quantity 
of table cream. Now pour over the chicken and let 
simmer very slowly for about 15 minutes. 

Noodles — Boil some noodles in salted water; drain, let 
cold water run through them. Lay on bottom of serving 
platter. Sprinkle with quantities of Parmesan cheese. 
Put chicken on top of noodles, pour gravy over all ; add 
a little more cheese and a few fresh cooked mushrooms 
if desired, or the canned, button kind. Put in a mod- 
erately warm oven for a few moments or until cheese is 
melted, and serve. It should have plenty of gravy. 

Chicken Greek (Mrs. Nelson Page, Oakland) 

Fricassee as usual. When done remove the chicken 
and add to the pot liquor one tomato and one cup of 
cooked macaroni. Beat three or more eggs and add the 
juice of one and one-half lemons. Then slowly beat in 
the pot-mixture and pour over the chicken. 

Panned Chicken (Dr. Clara M. Freeman) 

Prepare the chicken as for fricassee. Put a little olive 
oil in the roast pan and let it heat. Place the chicken in 
the pan, flouring each piece, and placing on each plenty 
of butter. When the chicken is thoroughly browned, put 
a little hot water in pan, the nucleus for the gravy. Add 
a little more water from time to time and baste the 



A California Cook Book 19 



chicken with it. Cook one hour. This is a delicious way 
to cook chicken and the toughest fowl becomes tender 
through this easy treatment. Serve with mashed pota- 
toes and rice, either curried or plain. 

Chicken Croquettes (Mrs. Steinhart) 

Boil a chicken until tender. When cold remove all the 
skin, and dice. To this add a can of diced mushrooms or 
small sprig of parsley minced very fine, a heaping table- 
spoon of melted butter, a teaspoon of lemon juice, 
salt, paprika, pepper, one pint of chicken broth and a 
tablespoon of flour. Let all simmer for one-half hour. 
Just before taking from stove add one-half pint cream 
to which has been added the yolks of two eggs. When 
this is cool form into croquettes. Dip in melted butter, 
then in beaten eggs, then cracker or bread crumbs (zwei- 
back crumbs are very nice) and fry in deep fat or lard. 
Serve with cream or any preferred sauce. Cream sauce 
is nice, to which a tablespoon of sherry or madeira has 
been added just before serving. 

Chicken Croquettes (Mrs. Mayo) 

Two cups chopped chicken, 1 teaspoon lemon juice, Yi 
teaspoon onion juice, 1 cup thick white sauce, 1 teaspoon 
minced parsley, 1 teaspoon minced celery and cayenne, 
salt and white pepper. Add seasoning to chicken, then 
mix in sauce. Dip into crumbs, then into egg. Fry in 
deep fat and drain on brown paper. 

Chicken de Belgium (Colonel Kowalsky) 

Take a fat hen, a calf's foot and a small piece of calf's 
liver, well rubbed with garlic, and place in a pot half 
filled with water, a teaspoonful of salt, pepper and a 
piece of celery. Let it simmer, adding water from time 
to time until it becomes very tender. Pour off stock, 
skim fat, retaining some of the fat and stock to make the 
sauce. Add to sauce one tablespoonful of butter and half 
a pint of cream. Season with chopped green pepper and 
California oysters. Cut chicken and slip off bone. Thicken 
sauce with a little flour and yolks of two eggs. Serve 
very hot. 

Spanish Chicken Dinner for Six (Henry Clay Smith, 
San Diego) 

Take a 5-pound chicken and cut up into small pieces. 
Separate the wings, neck and giblets and cook these 
separately. When the latter are done remove all meat 
from the bones and chop fine. Serve on toast with 
grated cheese. Put in oven a few minutes until cheese 
melts. 

Chicken — Mix one can green peas with two sweet 
green peppers, sliced. Take baking dish and line with 
layer of chicken and layer of peas and peppers, alter- 
nately, with seasoning. 

Stuffed Peppers — One pound veal and j4 _ Pound salt 
pork, chopped fine. Take six small sweet peppers and 
remove seeds. Stuff with above dressing. Take one 
can tomato soup, one pepper chopped fine, one chili 
pepper without the seeds, one onion chopped fine, small 
clove garlic, broth from the boiled wings and neck to 
be added. Use the Spanish for the stuffed peppers. 



20 A California Cook Book 



Stye lEwmrourai ijamburger 

HAMBURG STEAK can be cooked in many ways. 
En casserole it is tasty. Roll it in bread crumbs 
and use plenty of seasoning, either pepper and 
salt alone, or spices if desired. Put a lump of butter, a 
clove of garlic and an onion in the casserole with the 
meat, and a very little water. If no cracker or bread 
crumbs are used, it will not be necessary to use water, 
as the meat will be juicy. The crumbs absorb the juice. 
i . 
Method of Mrs. Albert Morath, Stockton 

When the steak is preferred in balls, crush the soft 
part of bread into the meat before rolling — not grating, 
but in soft pieces. Chop an onion and add, with garlic if 
liked ; plenty of seasoning, mustard with pepper and salt 
being an improvement. An egg can be beaten in if 
liked, but the meat has a better flavor if the egg is 
omitted. Fry in boiling bacon dripping, or butter if 
preferred. Do not cook too long. If the meat is liked 
better in flat cakes, omit the bread. 

Mrs. Grace Smith's Way 

A quick and good way to cook Hamburg steak is to 
form it into a loaf, season and cover with sliced toma- 
toes. Sprinkle paprika on the tomatoes. When the loaf 
is partly baked, flour it, and when the flour is well 
browned pour over it a little water so that there will be 
a gravy. 

Meat Loaf (Mrs. Roach) 

For a meat loaf roasted for a piece de resistance, mix 
the meat with plenty of onion, a dash of garlic, cinna- 
mon, pepper and salt. Have the meat ground part pork 
and part beef, as it is much better this way. Beat an 
egg into it, or omit if liked better without the egg. 
When in roasting pan place potatoes, sweet and white, 
about it and serve the browned potatoes as the garnish, 
with a little parsley. 

A nice way to cook "Hamburger" so that when cold it 
will cut off in thin slices, like head cheese, for sand- 
wiches, etc., is to mix up the minced meat with about 
one-half cup cracker crumbs, rolled fine; two eggs, un- 
beaten ; one-half cup milk or water, an onion minced 
fine ; seasoning, dash of pepper, paprika, kitchen bouquet, 
Worcestershire sauce, cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon, mus- 
tard, plenty of salt. Place in tin or aluminum mold and 
set this in pan half-filled with water. Bake about an 
hour in good oven. When done it will turn out of 
mold in perfect shape. 



Louis XIII of France was the creator of the method of 
preparing cutlets or chops broiled not only on the grill, but 
between two other cutlets, in order to preserve the juices. 



A California Cook Book 21 



SUre 



Jack London's Way 

«|~~\ ICE, cooked as American housewives never cook 
r^ it and can never learn to cook it, appeared on 
Martin's table at least once a day." Thus Jack 
London says in the forceful novel that is almost auto- 
biographical. And this is the way Jack London cooks 
his rice — I have the recipe by favor of Mrs. London, 
above her husband's signature : 

Rice Properly Cooked — First, the rice must be washed 
thoroughly, which will obviate all stickiness of the 
kernels when boiled. The proportion of rice should be 
one, to two of cold water. The Oriental allows this to 
stand several hours before setting on the stove. When 
the saucepan is finally placed on the stove, fire must be 
hot and the rice kept boiling until all the water has been 
absorbed by the rice, and no water remains on the sur- 
face. Then remove where the stove is not so hot, and let 
simmer slightly. The cooking of a pot of rice should 
require from fifty minutes to an hour for a moderate 
measure. Just before serving, stir softly and carefully 
with a fork, which loosens the mass into a light and 
flaky appearance. The kernels should be light, soft, 
separate. 

Miss Sarah Connell, book critic of "Town Talk" and 
an authority on cooking as on literature, says that "The 
trouble is not so much with the cook as with the rice 
itself. There are about 49 varieties and no two cook 
the same way. Some come out best by parboiling and 
then draining and starting again in cold water. To get 
the same kind of rice every time would mean one reliable 
recipe. As it is Chinese, Japanese, Indian, Georgia, South 
Carolina, and now California and a few dozen more, 
make rice cooking a never solved problem." 



Rice Mexican (William J. Taffinder) 

Requires rice (whole), sweet bell peppers, tomatoes, 
onion, chili powder, salt and pepper, lard. 

In a steel frying pan melt enough lard to fry to a seal 
brown color one teacupful of rice. The rice must be 
cleaned with a napkin and not washed. Constant stirring 
is necessary to prevent the rice from burning. Remove 
the rice and set to drain. Into the lard put one or two 
large peppers which have been seeded and chopped fine, 
and the juice of one medium sized onion (grated). One 
pinch of salt, pepper to taste. Two heaping teaspoonfuls 
of the chili powder, which has been mixed with three 
cupfuls of tomatoes which have been mashed fine. In a 
granite saucepan have a cup of boiling water. Pour the 
sauce from the frying pan into the saucepan, then pour 
in the rice. Boil slowly until the rice is cooked, place in 
oven and bake. 

If this dish is well cooked, each grain is separate and 
dry. 



22 A California Cook Book 

Rice Holland Style (Mrs. Amos Pylman, Hood, Sacra- 
mento County) 

Wash the rice in several waters until the last water is 
absolutely clear, and pick out all the dark grains. Have 
ready boiling water, and cook the rice in this until all 
the water is absorbed. The proportions are about twice 
liquid to the dry rice. When the rice is even with the 
water, stir in about a quart of milk (or less if the quan- 
tity of rice is small). Let this cook up in the rice, on 
the back of the stove. Rice cooked in this manner is 
delicious, every grain being perfect. 



The composer Rossini could cook cleverly, and his most 
celebrated dish was a preparation of macaroni. Caruso knows 
how to cook macaroni, also. 



TUtgfitabhB 



VERY few people cook vegetables properly, and few 
understand that the preparation is really a major 
part of vegetable-cookery. In boiling asparagus, 
for instance, do not let it boil too long. So many cooks 
leave the vegetables on the stove until all their delicate 
flavor is lost. If artichokes boil too long they become 
soggy. If vegetables are freshly gathered they do not 
need to cook so long as when they are old. Do not 
soak all vegetables in water — corn, for instance. The 
water may be freshening, but it toughens and hardens. 
Artichokes should be placed in water, so that they will 
be thoroughly cleansed. Kale and spinach must be 
washed in several waters before cooking. Peas, unless 
freshly picked from the vines, are improved by soaking. 
If very hard, a tiny dash of soda in the boiling water 
will soften them. If they are not sweet, add a little 
sugar to the water. 

Personally I prefer fresh vegetables dressed with 
butter, pepper and salt only, but many like them 
creamed. Carrots, if sliced very thin, only take about 
20 minutes to cook thoroughly ; dressed with butter, or 
with canned cream, they are a dish not to be despised 
because cheap. Corn, if young, should not be boiled 
more than 6 minutes at the most, and should be served 
at once. Allan Miner told me that an infallible way to 
cook corn was to place it in cold water and let it boil 
up ; when at the boil it is ready to serve. Steamed corn 
takes a long time to cook and is not invariably tender. 
The latest idea in corn cooking is to have the water 
boiling briskly, then drop the corn in and turn off the 
flame under the pot. The corn is said to be "ready" 
after a few minutes in the water. 

Cauliflower is much more tasty baked in the casserole, 
with butter and a little cream, with cheese and paprika, 
than in any other way. 

Potatoes are much more mealy boiled in their jackets 
than when peeled before boiling. Mashed potatoes 
beaten up with a fork just before serving are lighter 
than when a spoon or masher is used. 

Mrs. Ella Sterling Mighels tells me that Peas with 
Paprika, Portuguese style, are delicious. Boil the peas 



A California Cook Book 23 



in the usual way, then season with salt and pepper and 
plenty of melted butter, with paprika well sprinkled 
on top. 

The old way of cooking beets was boiling and 
then slicing and covering with vinegar, serving as a 
pickle. But beets are really an addition to the table 
when boiled or baked until tender and then served 
either whole, well buttered, or chopped fine and either 
creamed or merely dressed with butter, pepper and salt. 
The tops are usually boiled with the beets and served 
in a separate dish, chopped fine, the guest being asked 
whether he prefers the beets with or without the tops. 
Epicures like the tops, also the tender leaves of the 
cauliflower, the latter creamed. 

Squash, either the summer or winter variety, is deli- 
cious baked in the shell, with butter and seasoning of 
pepper, salt and paprika. If preferred it can be par- 
boiled before being placed in oven. Serve melon-size 
winter squash one-half to each guest. Parmesan cheese 
can be added, if liked. If summer squash is preferred 
boiled and mashed, be careful and use very little water 
while cooking. Just enough water to keep from scorch- 
ing is necessary ; the cooking should be rather a steam- 
ing process. Egg plant served in the shell is much more 
palatable than when fried. Sprinkle with cracker crumbs 
and bake until done ; if preferred, parboil first. 

The late Mrs. L. M. Barnett told me how they cook 
cabbage in Texas. They boil it with a red pepper 
(Mexican) and a ham bone. Cooked this way the cab- 
bage takes on a more refined flavor. 

Asparagus with Parmesan Cheese (Durini) 

Place the asparagus in boiling water and, when boiled, 
add salt. Cook until tender, drain and cool. Then cut 
asparagus in small pieces, using all but the tough part 
of the stalks. Put in bake pan or casserole one-half cup 
olive oil and one-third butter and a clove of garlic. Cover 
with Parmesan cheese and bake. 

Asparagus is very nice creamed, but it is as well to 
use the short or broken pieces for this dish. Cook the 
heads and very little of the stalk and make a drawn 
butter sauce, serving on toast. — (Mrs. Pylman). 

Artichokes, Italian Style (Durini) 

Take the artichokes and strip off one-quarter of the 
outer leaves, and then cut the top points off, after which 
put in boiling water ; add a little salt. When tender, 
drain and permit them to cool. Now cut the artichokes 
in half and fry in two-thirds olive oil and one-third 
butter with a dash of garlic. Serve when brown. 

Artichoke Dressing (Mrs. Meade) 

French dressing, with chopped fine onions, dill pickles, 
capers, pimento and walnuts. 

Potato Patties (Miss Connell) 

Take as many potatoes as you need — wash, peel and 
grate. Leave them in a dish or bowl under cover for an 
hour or so. Then drain off the "juice." Likely they will 



24 A California Cook Book 



have turned brown, but that will not matter. Press out 
as much of the water as can be done without really 
bothering. Beat up an egg and add to the potatoes, with 
salt and pepper for seasoning. For a small quantity a 
whole egg may be too much, for the mixture must be 
like a fairly stiff dough. If too soft, add a little flour 
until it comes just right. Make it into patties, roll in 
crumbs and fry in deep fat. 

Potato Dumplings (Mrs. Magee) 

Four cold boiled potatoes, stale bread crumbs, 2 eggs, 
y 2 teaspoon salt, % teaspoon pepper, 1 teaspoon parsley, 
a dash of nutmeg, 2 tablespoons flour, 2 cups fried 
bread crumbs. Grate potatoes, add 1 cup crumbs crisped 
in butter or drippings; add eggs and seasoning; form in 
medium size balls and steam or boil 20 minutes. Turn 
out and sprinkle with remaining crumbs. 



Baked potatoes are delicious if scooped out just before 
serving and the potato mashed with butter, pepper and 
salt and a little cream, then returned to the skin and 
placed in oven to heat. Serve piping hot. 



Mrs. Luck says: "Rub potatoes with butter or olive 
oil before baking, as it makes the skins more tender and 
gives them an artistic brown," and Mrs. Mighels has 
found out: "If the milk for mashed potatoes is scalded 
first the potatoes left over will be in no danger of turn- 
ing sour and can be made into dainty potato pats for 
next day's luncheon." 

Smothered Onions (H. C. Smith) 

Place the onions, medium size or large as preferred, 
and as many as are desired, in a stew pot. Place a lump 
of butter on each onion and season with salt and pepper. 
Cover the pot and let the onions bake a little while in 
the melted butter. Have a little water in the pan so as 
to keep from burning. Let the onions cook slowly but 
thoroughly, and when done add a little cream to the 
water. The onions are just as delicious without the 
cream, though perhaps not quite so rich. Paprika can 
be added to the other seasoning if wished. 



When you see a gash in a potato, don't imagine it is de- 
cayed. The gash merely means that the spade slashed the 
tuber, when Farmer John was digging. 



A California Cook Book 25 



&alait Sr?BBtttg 



DIFFERENT cooks have different ways of making 
mayonnaise. If the salt is put in with the first 
drops of olive oil there is less danger of curdling, 
and some say a little vinegar is a sure preventive of 
curdling. Mayonnaise made with cottonseed oil never 
curdles, and if the vinegar is beaten up first, and the oil 
added to the egg gradually, the result is always good. 
The cottonseed oil does not have the "snap" of olive oil, 
but a great many prefer it. It takes more pure olive oil 
(that in cans) to thicken the mayonnaise than it does of 
the "salad oil" that comes in bottles, but the flavor of 
the thinner oil is more acceptable to the connoisseur. 
An easy way to make mayonnaise is to beat a whole egg 
in a bowl with salt until light and then add the oil 
(olive or cottonseed) drop by drop until it is fairly 
thick. Beat with Dover beater and then add more oil 
and some salt. With an egg and about two cups of 
oil one can make enough mayonnaise in this way to last 
a week if kept in a chilly place. Add about a teaspoonful 
of vinegar the very last and beat well. The mayonnaise 
can be thinned from day to day, when used, with lemon 
juice or vinegar. This mayonnaise really tastes just as 
well as the kind made in the slow, old-fashioned way. 

Salad is much more tasty mixed in French or Italian 
style than in a more formal way. Have ready the lettuce 
(crisped), onions sliced thin, or whatever else is desired 
for the salad. Put the vegetables in large bowl, season 
with salt and pepper and pour over all the oil. Mix up 
with the hands, and when ready to serve add the vinegar 
to taste. Garlic can be rubbed in the bottom of the 
bowl, or the clove left in until the salad is served. Mix- 
ing with the hands works in the "taste" as no other way 
could. 

Salads are of infinite variety these days — the apple and 
nut; beet; bean — lima, liver and Boston, with a few 
string beans and peas ; olive and tomato, with green 
pepper; pimento and lettuce; cauliflower; artichoke and 
asparagus; cucumber and tomato — indeed, what com- 
bination cannot be used for a salad? 



Dressing "Louis" (Mrs. H. S. Whittard) 

One teaspoon dry mustard, 1 teaspoon salt (small), 
x /2 teaspoon sugar, 2-3 cup olive oil, 4 tablespoons chili 
sauce (Millar's preferred), 1 tablespoon Worcestershire 
sauce, 1 tablespoon malt vinegar, 1 teaspoon horse- 
radish. Have bowl very cold, and rub well with garlic. 
Put in mustard, salt and sugar. Add to this the oil, 
gradually. Beat well. Then add chili sauce, Worcester- 
shire sauce and horseradish, putting in vinegar last. 
(To be used on any kind of salad.) 

Salad Dressing (Mrs. Page) 

About the size of three peas of mustard stirred in 
either water or vinegar, 2 tablespoons sugar, 1 table- 
spoon olive oil, pinch of salt, 1 egg well beaten, 1 cup 
vinegar. Let boil up without stirring. When cooled 
should be the consistency of good cream. 



26 A California Cook Book 



Salad Dressing (Dr. J. Wilson Shiels) 

The ingredients are the yolk of one hard boiled egg, 
1 tablespoon of Roquefort cheese, wet English mustard, 
pepper (fresh ground), salt and sugar to taste, 3 table- 
spoons of olive oil, Yi tablespoon of Tarragon vinegar. 
Mash the egg yolk and the cheese together and add 
seasoning, gradually add oil and vinegar. Cut up fine 
the white of the egg and add this last. (This quantity 
is for four people.) 

Lettuce Holland Style (Mrs. Pylman) 

Cut a slice of bacon — or more if needed — into dice 
and fry in sauce-pan. Have lettuce ready in dish, and 
just before serving pour a little vinegar into the bacon 
fat, stirring and seasoning with pepper (not too much). 
Then pour over lettuce. 

Canadian Salad Dressing (Mrs. Pylman) 

Yolk of egg, tablespoon sugar, teaspoon flour, */ 2 tea- 
spoon mustard, Yi cup milk, small chunk of butter. 
Cook to boiling point, and then pour in y 2 cup of vine- 
gar. Stir constantly. Pour this over cabbage cut very 
fine, while the cabbage is hot. If this dressing is used 
for lettuce it can be mixed with a little lemon juice, 
enough to thin it, and is a very good substitute for 
mayonnaise. 



Water cress salad, seasoned with pepper, salt, paprika 
and a little garlic, with vinegar, is very palatable. The 
garlic adds much to the tastiness of this simple salad. 



Lucullus, the Monte Cristo of Naples, according to Juvenal, 
devoured at one meal a whole estate. He thought nothing of 
spending $20,000 on one banquet and nearly every day he 
spread one of these feasts. 



Napoleon boasted of his cooking talent, but when asked 
to make an omelet he awkwardly flipped it on the floor. Conde 
also proclaimed his ability as a cook, but overturned his 
omelet into the fire. Prince de Tallyrand did not boast, but 
really knew how to cook. 



A California Cook Book 27 



(§mtUtB anin Arrnmpamm^nt 

IT was Will Clemens' cook who discovered how to 
make the most delicious omelet imaginable, using 

water instead of milk, or with the eggs by them- 
selves. One evening Mr. and Mrs. Clemens were enter- 
taining a few friends in their New York flat, and the 
maid was called upon to serve omelets all around. The 
first of her creations was so appetizing that she was 
requested to repeat the dish. In a short time out she 
came from the kitchen with an omelet which was so 
delicious that every guest exclaimed, "How do you 
make these?" She falteringly confessed that as there 
was no more milk in the house and the omelet 
was wanted directly she had ventured to use water 
instead of milk for thinning. 

"Hereafter all our omelets shall be thinned with 
water." exclaimed all the delighted eaters, among whom 
was Mrs. Sterling Mighels, who brought the creation 
to San Francisco. 

Orange Omelet (Mrs. Meade) 

Three eggs beaten separately, 3 tablespoons orange 
juice. 1 tablespoon sugar, rind of 1 orange. When 
serving burn with Kirsch or brandy. 

Cheese Straws (Mrs. Meade) 

One oz. butter, 1 oz. flour, 2 ounces bread crumbs, 2 
ounces cheese grated. j4 salt-spoon of mixed salt and 
cayenne. Mix into a paste or roll out into a quarter 
of an inch thickness. Cut in narrow strips and lay on 
sheet of paper to cook. Baked in a few moments. Two 
tablespoons means 1 ounce. 



Also delicious accompaniment to salads or omelets 
are soda crackers placed in the oven, with slices of 
Eastern or California cheese on them, sprinkled with 
salt and paprika. When the cheese is melted they are 
readv to serve. 



English toast is nice to serve with an omelet, or with 
anchovies as an appetizer for a formal dinner. Cut 
the bread in medium-thin slices, and brown on pan in 
butter, being careful not to let them cook too crisp. 
If desired a little salt can be sprinkled on the slices, 
and paprika. 



French toast is made by cutting moderately thick 
slices of bread, dipping them in egg moistened with a 
little milk, and frying them in bacon dripping or butter 
until brown, sprinkling sugar and cinnamon on each 
slice if desired. If preferred chopped parsley, pepper 
and salt may be the seasoning, and some people like 
this toast served with currant jelly spread on it. 



Baked macaroni is greatly improved by adding 
an onion. 



Those who object to onion and garlic in vegetable 
form find the onion-garlic flavoring extract not against 
"heir palates. 



28 A California Cook Book 



ftob&mgH attb $1 ttft&tttg BmxttB 

Plum Pudding (Mrs. Thomas Longton, Sacramento) 

One pint stale breadcrumbs, 1 cup flour, 1 cup stoned 
raisins, 1 cup mashed currants, 1 cup brown sugar, 1 
teaspoon cinnamon, y 2 teaspoon grated nutmeg, y 2 
pound suet, y 2 pound citron, 1 teaspoon baking powder, 
juice and rind of 1 lemon, y 2 cup molasses, 3 eggs. Mix 
well all dry ingredients, beat eggs and add to molasses ; 
dissolve soda in tablespoon hot water and add to it 
molasses and eggs. Mix into dry ingredients and pack 
into greased mold. Boil 4 hours. Serve with hard 
and brandy sauce. 

Brandy Sauce 

Four tablespoons butter size two eggs, 1 cup pow- 
dered sugar, whites 2 eggs, y 2 cup boiling water, y 2 cup 
brandy. Beat butter to a cream and add gradually 
sugar. Beat until white and light, then add whites one 
at a time, beating all the while. When ready to serve 
add brandy and boiling water. Stand bowl in basin 
of boiling water over fire, and stir until light and 
creamy, and it is ready to serve. 

English Plum Pudding (Mrs. George Albert Bromley) 

One-half pound beef suet, y 2 pound seeded raisins, y 2 
pound Sultana raisins, y 2 pound currants, % pound 
mixed candied peel, y 2 pound breadcrumbs, 1 cup flour, 
y 2 pound chopped almonds, y 2 pound brown sugar, y 2 
teaspoon each nutmeg and cinnamon, y teaspoon cloves, 
5 eggs, y 2 cup milk, rind and juice of 1 lemon and 1 
orange. 

First — Chop suet, then dry and pick currants, cut large 
raisins in halves, shred and peel, blanch and chop al- 
monds. Next, mix all dry ingredients thoroughly. 
Third — Beat up eggs, add milk, and mix them in 
pudding. Fourth — Let it stand if possible for a day or 
two before cooking, then pour into well-greased mold. 
Cover closely and steam. 

Nursery Plum Pudding (Miss Connell) 

Take a loaf of raisin bread, wrap in a clean cloth, 
and place in colander to steam. It will take about an 
hour, but can be steamed over something else that 
is boiling. Serve with sweet sauce. This is a very 
good and cheap pudding, nutritious and palatable. 

Plum Pudding (Mrs. John Parke Brownlee, Berkeley) 

One pound suet, 1 pound raisins, 1 pound currants, 
1 pound bread crumbs, y pound mixed peel, 2 cups 
sugar, 4 tablespoons flour, 1 teaspoon each of nutmeg 
and cinnamon, 1 pint brandy, 6 eggs, 1 teaspoon salt. 

Wellsley Pudding (Mrs. E. R. Bromley) 

Put two cupfuls sugar and one-third boiling water 
in a granite saucepan. Place on range and stir until 
sugar has dissolved. Bring to boiling point and let 
boil without stirring until mixture will spin and thread 
when dropped from tip of spoon. Pour syrup gradually 



A California Cook Book 29 



while beating constantly on the whites of 2 eggs beaten 
until stiff and continue beating until mixture is nearly 
stiff enough to hold its shape. Return to saucepan 
and place in large pan containing a little boiling water 
and cook, stirring constantly from botton to sides of 
pan until mixture becomes granular around sides. 
Remove and beat until mixture will hold its shape. 
Flavor with y 2 teaspoon vanilla. 

Fig Pudding (Mrs. Augustus Chasy Doan, New York) 

Three ounces each of flour and bread crumbs. Shred 

2 ounces of suet fine, and mix with flour and bread 
crumbs. Two ounces apples chopped fine. 4 ounces 
figs chopped fine.l tablespoon sugar and sufficient milk 
to mix firmly — not too wet. Put in buttered mold and 
press closely together. Tie down with cloth and steam 

3 hours. Leave room for it to swell. 

Cherry Puffs (Mrs. George Alfred Sellery, Neligh, Ne- 
braska) 

One pint flour, 2 teaspoons baking powder, y 2 tea- 
spoon salt, 2 tablespoons sugar, 1 tablespoon butter. 
Stir in sweet milk until thick enough batter is formed. 
Put 2 tablespoons cherries in cup, then tablespoon 
batter on top. Place in steamer and cook 20 minutes. 
Serve with sauce or cream. 

Apple Pudding (Mrs. J. Allan Munro, Berkeley) 

One pint flour, 1 cup milk, 2 eggs, butter size of an 
egg, 2 teaspoons baking powder. Sift baking powder in 
flour, melt butter, add milk, eggs and flour. Bake 1 
hour over sliced and sweetened apples, (or steam if 
preferred). 

Indian Pudding (Mrs. Page) 

Scald the corn meal in boiling milk, and stir in salt 
and brown sugar or molasses — some molasses to give 
good color — two beaten eggs, a good tablespoonful of 
butter, seeded raisins, and milk to make a fairly stiff 
batter. Stir several times while baking, and add more 
milk it if seems to bake too dry. Bake about an hour 
and a half. Molasses does not mean refined syrup but 
New Orleans black-strap. 

Steamed Pudding (Mrs. Franklin Poore) 

One small cup sour milk, \y 2 cups flour, 1 teacup 
sugar, 1 egg, J / 2 teaspoon cinnamon, y. each of nutmeg 
and cloves, y 2 teaspoon soda, 2 tablespoons butter (or 
suet size of small egg), citron and raisins (or not if 
preferred). Beat all together at once — the butter, sugar, 
egg and spices, then add sour milk and flour and soda, 
mixing the soda with a little warm water, and add 
last of all just before the raisins or citron. Chopped 
apples or sliced may be used instead of the other fruit — 
or no fruit at all. If sweet milk is used, in place of 
soda use 1 teaspoon baking powder. Steam three- 
quarters of an hour. If suet is used, chop fine, and use 
instead of the butter. 



30 A California Cook Book 



Steamed Pudding (Mrs. Mighels) 

Take about a quart of stale graham bread, crusts and 
all, and soak in water until soft; then dry. Add 7 
chopped apples, Rhode Island pippins; about y 2 cup 
suet, shredded or run through the meat grinder; 
about 2 tablespoons flour and y 2 teaspoon baking 
powder; 2 eggs well beaten, salt to taste and 
about a cup of sugar (if a very sweet pudding is liked, 
add more sugar). Flavor with cinnamon and nutmeg. 
Beat all together, and soften with more water if neces- 
sary. Place in covered tins and steam about three 
hours. This pudding may be served with hard or soft 
sauce, and can be kept for a long time, ready to heat 
up when an emergency dessert is called for. It is 
simple and very palatable. 

St. James Pudding (Mrs. G. A. Bromley) 

One cup molasses, 1 cup sweet or sour milk, ^ CU P 
suet, 1 egg, y 2 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon soda, 1 tea- 
spoon cinnamon, and nuts and raisins to suit taste. 
Flour like cake batter. Steam one and a half hours. 

Sauce — 2 cups sugar, butter size egg, then add 2 eggs. 

Chocolate Pudding (Mrs. Mayo) 

One cup grated carrots, 1 cup grated Irish potatoes, 
4 tablespoons chocolate, 1 cup sugar, y 2 cup chopped 
nuts, y 2 cup chopped raisins, 1 full teaspoon mixed 
spices, 1 cup flour, 1 tablespoon brandy, butter the size 
of an egg, 1 level teaspoon soda. Grate the carrots and 
potatoes first, and then mix them with the other in- 
gredients. Steam in a covered tin three full hours. Serve 
with hard sauce. The pudding looks more festive if 
served with brandy burning on the platter; then take up 
burning mixture and "baste" pudding with it. 

(As good as anything I ever tasted. This recipe was 
given me by an old negress who cooked at our San 
Diego boarding house. — Dorothy W. Mayo.) 



Tapioca is very nice cooked with fruits, and canned 
peaches or apricots blend well with it as a pudding. 
When served as a custard, boiled, shredded pineapple 
is delicious beaten up with the custard. 

Sauce for Cottage Pudding (Mrs. C. E. Longton) 

Butter size of an egg, 2 cups granulated sugar beaten 
to a cream, then add gradually 2 cups of strawberries 
well mashed. 

Simple Pudding Sauce (S. W.) 

One-half cup sugar, 1 cup water. When near to boiling 
point add 2 teaspoons cornstarch moistened in water or 
milk. Boil about 5 minutes. Before serving add flavor- 
ing — brandy, vinegar, vanilla or lemon extract, with 
a little nutmeg grated. 



Remember not to try doing too many things at once. As 
Prentice Mulford said: "You can't bake a johnnycake and 
mend the chicken-coop at the same time." The folks that 
expect others to draw a circle with one hand and a straight line 
with the other never try it themselves. 



A California Cook Book 31 



iFanrg Bcamta 



Marshmallow Pudding (Mrs. Roach) 

One cup sugar, whites of 2 eggs. Dissolve 1 package 
of Knox's gelatine in hot water, let cool. Add to sugar 
and whites of eggs, and beat all together until it is 
like marshmallow. Separate into three different parts. 
Add chocolate to one part, dissolve small portion of red 
pellet in water, add to other part leaving one part white. 
Put in mold and let stand. Flavor with vanilla, rose or 
almond. The three blended together make a delicious 
flavoring. Add pinch of salt to pudding. Serve with 
whipped cream. 

Miss Ray Bromley says : "With another portion 
colored with green and flavored with pistachio the 
marshmallow is made even more attractive, served with 
the whipped cream and chopped walnuts, and a mara- 
schino cherry on top of each helping." 

Mrs. Mayo adds : "The marshmallow is also delicious 
with crushed fruits, raspberry, strawberry or banana, 
used instead of the other flavoring. Instead of whipped 
cream pineapple juice poured over it makes a change." 

Marshmallow Cream (Mrs. Walter A. Scott) 

One-fourth cup cold water, \y 2 tablespoon gelatine, 
J4 cup boiling water. Then, if not dissolved sufficiently, 
set on stove a few seconds. Six broken macaroons, 1 
cup granulated sugar, 1 dozen marshmallows, 5 cents' 
worth candied cherries, Yz cup grated almonds, 3 table- 
spoons sherry or rum. Mix all this and while it is 
cooling whip the cream (1 pint cream). 

Bavarian Cream (Mrs. G. A. Bromley) 

One-half package gelatine dissolved in a little water, 
1 pint milk, 1 pint cream, ^ CU P sugar, 4 eggs, pinch 
salt, vanilla and almond flavoring. Let milk and salt 
come to a boil, add gelatine, then beat in beaten yolks 
of eggs, a little at a time. Put on stove and let it cus- 
tard. When cold beat in whites and cream and let 
stand in cool place until served. 

Frozen Pudding (Mrs. G. A. Bromley) 

One-half pint whipping cream, whites of 2 eggs, 2 
bananas, Yz cup sugar. Cut fruit and put sugar on it 
and let stand and then mash with fork. Whip cream, 
add eggs mixed together, then fruit and sugar. Put in 
freezer and let freeze as for ice cream. (For four 
people.) 

Pineapple Parfait (Mrs. G. A. Bromley) 

One quart whipped cream. Put in cup with a little 
water, 1 tablespoon gelatine, set cup in dish of hot water 
to dissolve. Mix gelatine, 1 cup sugar, 1 can grated 
pineapple, then turn all into whipped cream. Put into 
glass jar or tin molds to freeze. Chop ice and use 1 cup 
rock salt to 2 cups ice. Pack and let stand about two 
and a half or three hours. To take from mold dip a 



32 A California Cook Book 



towel in hot water and hold around mold for an in- 
stant and the parfait will slide out on dish to be served. 
Can be cut off in slices. 

Orange Cream Pudding (Rose Mahony) 

Dissolve 2 heaping teaspoons powdered gelatine in 1 
cup boiling water, add 2 cups sugar, 2 cups strained 
orange juice, yolks of 3 eggs. Beat well together, then 
add 2 cups whipped cream. Pour into mold, and turn 
out when firm. 



The popular dessert for a Christmas dinner in Texas, 
said Mrs. Barnett, recalling memories of her childhood, 
was banana, orange and pineapple cut up and mixed 
with a little lemon juice. Served with fruit cake. 



pea wxit OTltnga 



Pie Crust (Mrs. E. R. Bromley) 

One cup lard, level teaspoon salt, beaten to a cream. 
Add 3 cups flour, work lightly together with y 2 cup 
water. When pie is made before cutting holes in top 
crust let the cold water run over it. Bake to a nice 
brown. 

Lemon Pie Filling (Mrs. F. G. Irving, Colfax) 

This makes one pie. 

One cup sugar, 1 tablespoon butter, 2 eggs, saving 
white of 1 for meringue ; 1 tablespoon cornstarch, moist- 
ened in a little water, 1 lemon grated and the juice. 
Stir together and then pour over 1 cup boiling water. 
Boil until thick. Cool a little and put on meringue, 
browning later in oven, just a little. Make pie crust 
first. 

Chocolate Filling (S. W.) 

Yolks of 2 eggs, 2 scant tablespoons cornstarch, 1 
quart milk, 2 tablespoons sugar, pinch salt, y 2 teaspoon 
vanilla. Cook as for chocolate pudding, adding vanilla 
after the mixture is done. Do not let it boil too hard. 
About four minutes is sufficient. If it seems too stiff, 
thin a little. Have ready the pie shell with deep crust 
and fancy border. Pour custard in shell and let cool 
a little. Beat up the 2 whites of egg with a little 
powdered sugar and a dash of salt and vanilla ex- 
tract. Place meringue on top of pie and brown in 
oven. This makes a very deep pie, or two small ones. 

Squash Pie Filling (Mrs. R. N. Roach) 

Three big cups of cooked squash, 5 eggs, 1 quart 
sweet milk. Sweeten to taste. Add cinnamon and 
nutmeg to taste, and salt. Mix sugar, spices, salt with 
the squash, add eggs and milk, and strain into two deep 
pie pans which have been lined with a good pie paste. 



A squash pie is delicious served with whipped cream 
on top. 



A California Cook Book 33 



(ttakra unb iFUltttga for date* 

The oftener you sift flour the lighter will be your 
cakes. 

Cream the butter and sugar with the hands in cold 
weather, as it will produce better and quicker results. 

Never beat a cake batter briskly after the flour has 
been added, as it will toughen the grain. Fold the 
flour in gently. 

Chocolate Cake (Mrs. Roach) 

Three tablespoons chocolate, dissolved in a little hot 
water. Cream 1 thin slice butter and 1 cup sugar with 
chocolate, add 2 eggs well beaten, 1 cup milk, sweet or 
sour if preferred (if sour, use a pinch of soda) ; 2 cups 
flour — sift 4 times, then measure. Add 2 teaspoons 
baking powder, pinch salt, vanilla to taste. If you like, 
use a little cinnamon. Bake in loaf or layers. Use 
white or chocolate frosting. 
Frosting for Chocolate Cake 

Two teacups powdered sugar, 2 tablespoons chocolate, 
hot water enough to moisten so it will spread smooth — 
add water a little at a time. 

Easy Fruit Cake (S. W.) 

Two cups flour sifted 4 times, 2 teaspoons baking 
powder, 2 eggs, y 2 cup cold black coffee, 1 thin slice 
butter, 1 cup sugar, 2 tablespoons dark molasses, x / 2 cup 
raisins, cut or whole, 1/3 cup dried currants, 1 table- 
spoon citron sliced very thin, y 2 cup cut walnuts, about 
6 maraschino cherries cut fine, or if preferred to have 
them whole, use about 12; 1 teaspoon sherry, brandy or 
lemon extract, y 2 teaspoon powdered chocolate, r / 2 
teaspoon cinnamon, % teaspoon each of grated 
cloves, nutmeg, allspice; y 2 teaspoon salt. Cream sugar 
and butter, add molasses, fruit and coffee, beating all 
well ; then add eggs well beaten ; sift all dry ingredi- 
ents together and join to mixture, being careful to have 
them well harmonized. Bake about an hour, in a slow 
oven. This cake is nice either iced or plain. It will 
keep fresh a long time. 

The same cake is very nice if made without the fruit 
mentioned above, but with dried figs, cut fine, substi- 
tuted, and with light molasses. 

Fruit Cake (Mrs. Joseph Nesbitt) 

Two cups butter, 2 cups white sugar, 2 large cups 
flour, 6 cups raisins, 2 cups currants, 4 cups mixed 
peel, 4 teaspoons cinnamon, 1 nutmeg, 2 teaspoons 
vanilla, 2 teaspoons baking powder, 10 eggs, 1 glass 
brandy. 

Fruit Cake (Mrs. E. F. Smith) 

One pound raisins, 1 pound currants, 1 3^2 pound citron, 
2 eggs, 1 cup molasses, 1 cup brown sugar, l / 2 cup butter, 
2/3 cup water, y 2 teaspoon soda, 1 teaspoon cream 
tartar, 2 teaspoons nutmeg, 2 teaspoons allspice, 1 tea- 
spoon cloves, 3 cups flour. Bake two and a half or 
three hours, slowly. 



34 A California Cook Book 



(This recipe was given me by Mrs. Bryant, wife of a 
professor at Stanford University, Palo Alto. — M. C. S.) 

Apple Sauce Cake (Mrs. John W. Sandford, White 
Sulphur Springs, St. Helena) 

One and one-half cups brown sugar, 1 cup raisins, 1 
teaspoon mace, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, y 2 teaspoon each 
of nutmeg and cloves, \y 2 cups flour, 1 cup apple sauce, 
1 thin slice butter, 1 level teaspoon soda dissolved in 
water. Bake slowly one hour. No egg is required for 
this cake, but one may be used if preferred. 



Buckeye Cake (Seba Rixon, San Francisco) 

One cup butter, 2 cups powdered sugar, 3 cups flour, 
1 cup sour milk, 4 or 5 eggs, 1 teaspoon soda, 1 nutmeg, 
24 pounds raisins cut with knife and rolled with half 
the flour. Cream butter and sugar, add yolks of eggs, 
then milk with soda dissolved in it. Stir in y 2 of 
flour, then stir briskly. Then add flour and raisins 
and stir again, the whites of eggs last. Bake from 1 
to \y 2 hours. 

Scotch Short Cake (Mrs. S. Secord, Kincardine, Ontario) 

Four cups flour, y 2 cup butter, y 2 cup lard, 1 cup 
brown sugar, 1 egg. 

Spice Cake (Mrs. Doan) 

One cup brown sugar, 2 tablespoons butter beaten 
to a cream, 2 eggs, y 2 cup milk or water, 1 teaspoon 
each allspice, cinnamon, 1 cup flour, 1 large teaspoon 
baking powder. 

Gingerbread Without Eggs (Mrs. F. B. Jansen) 

Two scant cups flour, y 2 cup sugar, y 2 cup dark 
molasses, y 2 cup sour milk, pinch soda, 2 even 
teaspoons baking powder, ginger, cloves, cinnamon, 
nutmeg to taste; vanilla extract if desired. Beat 
into soft batter being very careful not to have it 
too stiff. Use water to thin, if the flour seems 
too heavy. Shorten with about a tablespoon of 
butter, either creamed with the sugar or melted and 
added to dry ingredients. Place in hot greased pan and 
bake about one-half hour in good oven. Raisins and 
currants can be added if desired. 

Sister Clara's Soft Gingerbread (Mrs. Irving) 

Two eggs, y 2 cup sugar, 1 cup molasses, 2/3 cup 
shortening, pinch of ginger if desired, cinnamon and 
cloves to suit taste, heaping teaspoon soda dissolved 
in a little water, iy 2 cups flour; add 1 cup boiling 
water just before putting in oven. 

Brown Velvet Cake (Mrs. G. A. Bromley) 

One-half cup butter, 1 cup sugar, 1 egg, 1 cup sour 
milk into which put y 2 teaspoon baking soda, 2 cups 
flour, 2 tablespoons chocolate, y 2 teaspoon cinnamon 
and nutmeg, %. teaspoon cloves, 1 teaspoon vanilla and 
a little salt. 



A California Cook Book 35 

Throw-Together Cakes (Mrs. G. A. Bromley) 

One-half cup butter, 1 1/3 cup sugar, y 2 cup water, 
2 cups flour, 4 eggs, 2 teaspoons baking powder, y 2 cup 
currants, juice y 2 lemon, pinch of nutmeg. 

Potato Cake (Marie Lucile Pyle) 

Two cups sugar, 1 cup each lard and butter, y 2 cup 
milk, 3 eggs beaten separately, 1 cup mashed potatoes, 
1 cup grated chocolate, 1 cup chopped walnuts, 2 cups 
flour, 2 teaspoons each of cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves. 
Fold whites of eggs in last. 

Nut Cake (Mrs. Brownlee) 

One cup sugar, 2 eggs, y 2 cup butter, y 2 cup sweet 
milk, \ l / 2 cups sifted flour, 2 teaspoons baking powder, 
nuts to desire. Bake in breadpan. 

Prune Layer Cake (Mrs. Roach) 

One cup sugar, 1 thin slice butter, 3 yolks and \y 2 
whites of eggs, 1 cup prunes, or 24 prunes, l / 2 cup milk, 
1 teaspoon cinnamon, y 2 teaspoon cloves, 2 cups flour, 

1 small teaspoon soda, 1 teaspoon baking powder. Any 
preferred flavoring. Bake in layers. Filling — Boiled 
icing, and 10 marshmallows added. 

Layer Cake (Mrs. Brownlee) 

Two cups flour sifted once, 1 cup sugar, y 2 cup butter, 

2 eggs, y 2 cup milk, pinch salt, 2 teaspoons baking pow- 
der, lemon or vanilla flavoring. Cream butter and sugar, 
then add yolks of eggs, then milk, then dry ingredients 
and the egg whites last of all, beaten stiff. Any kind 
of filling can be used with this recipe. 

Chocolate Jam Cake (Mrs. Gus Moose, San Francisco) 

One cup sugar, 4 tablespoons butter. Cream well into 
above yolks of 3 eggs, grated rind of 1 lemon, y 2 tea- 
spoon each of cloves, cinanmon and allspice, 1 teaspoon 
almond extract, 1 teaspoon vanilla, 4 tablespoons milk, 

3 teaspoons water, 4 tablespoons grated chocolate, 1 cup 
flour, 1 teaspoon baking powder, and last the beaten 
whites of eggs. Bake in 2 jelly-cake tins, medium oven. 
When baked put any kind of jam between layers and 
ice with chocolate icing. 

Lemon Cream Cake (Mrs. Moose) 

Three eggs, 2/3 cups sugar. Beat well for about 10 
or 15 minutes. Two-thirds cup flour and 2/3 tea- 
spoon baking powder. Bake in moderately quick oven. 
After above is baked turn out and cool. Yolks of 4 
eggs, 34 cup powdered sugar, 1 heaping teaspoon corn- 
starch, juice of 2 lemons, y 2 pint of pastry cream, and 
beaten whites of 2 eggs added to above. Boil in double 
boiler, and when thick let cool and put on top. of cake. 
Then beat another y 2 pint of pastry cream for the top 
of above. 



36 A California Cook Book 



Sherry Cake (Mrs. H. H. Powell, San Mateo) 

One cup sugar and Yz cup butter, creamed; 2 eggs, or 
3 yolks and 1 white; Yz cup sherry; \Yz cups flour; 1 
cup chopped nuts and raisins; Yz teaspoon soda dis- 
solved in water, to be added last. Bake in loaf or 
layers, white icing. 

White Cake (Mrs. Moose) 

One cup sugar, 1/3 cup butter. Cream well. One- 
half cup milk, \]/ 2 cups flour, 1 scant teaspoon baking 
powder, whites of 3 eggs well beaten. After creaming 
butter and sugar add Y> the flour, then the eggs, and 
lastly the remainder of the flour. Flavor to taste. Bake 
in slow oven. 

Devil Cake (Mrs. G. A. Bromley) 

Cream Yz cup butter, beat gradually into it Yz CU P 
white sugar and beaten yolks of 4 eggs. Melt 4 
ounces of unsweetened chocolate, over hot water, stir 
until smooth, then add to other ingredients. Add al- 
ternately 1^2 cup milk, % cup flour, sifted, 1 teaspoon 
cinnamon and 2 level teaspoons baking powder. Flavor 
with teaspoon vanilla. Beat in whites beaten dry. 
Bake in sheets 2 layers put together with boiled frost- 
ing. 

Devil Cake (Mrs. Roach) 

Three-quarters cup ground chocolate, Yz cup sweet 
milk, 2/3 cup brown sugar, yolk of 1 egg. Beat all to- 
gether, soft boil until like a custard. Set to cool. This 
is the cream. 

Take 1 cup brown sugar, y 2 cup sweet milk, 2 eggs, 
2 cups sifted flour. After the cake is mixed, then stir 
in the above cream. Then add 1 teaspoon soda dis- 
solved in a little warm water. Spread chocolate icing 
or white boiled icing on top and between layers. This 
is good. 

Nut Torte (Mrs. G. A. Bromley) 

Yolks 5 eggs, 3 tablespoons sugar, 5 soda crackers 
ground, Yz cup chopped walnuts, vanilla flavoring. 
Whites of 5 eggs beaten stiff. Bake in moderate oven 
in spring form tin 20 minutes. Cover or spread top of 
cake with raspberry jam, then macaroons, then whipped 
cream, then chopped nuts. 

Marble Cake (Mrs. Mayo) 

Whites of 3 eggs, 1 cup sugar, Yz cup butter, 2 cups 
flour with 2 teaspoons baking powder. Cream butter 
and sugar; add the beaten whites of the eggs; mix 
in the flour with 2/3 of a teacup sweet milk; flavor 
with lemon. Then remove Y CU P °f dough and add to 
it 3 teaspoons grated chocolate. Stir this into the cake 
after it has been put into the bakepan. 

Breakfast Cake (Mrs. Page) 

Two cups sifted flour, Y cu P sugar, 1 egg, 1 teaspoon 
baking powder, salt to taste. Milk to make a smooth 
batter. Bake about twenty minutes. 



A California Cook Book 37 



German Apple Cake (S. W) 

One tgg, 1 cup milk, 1 tablespoon melted butter, 2 
teaspoons baking powder, 2 cups flour sifted three or 
four times, salt to taste, y 2 cup sugar, brown or gran- 
ulated, 1 teaspoon powdered cinnamon, pinch powdered 
nutmeg. Beat egg, add milk and butter, flour sifted 
with baking powder and salt ; stir and pour in shallow 
pan. Have ready apples cut in 16ths, and when batter 
is ready in pan press the cut apples down in it. Over 
all sprinkle the sugar sifted with the spices. Bake in 
moderate oven about a half hour. This coffee c?ke, or 
apple cake, is very nice with other fruits, oranges, 
peaches, cherries, pears, pineapple, cut the same way 
as the apples. If cooked fruit is used see that all the 
juice is drained off first. Nuts and raisins and citron 
cut very fine with a sharp knife can be used, the raisins 
and citron worked into the batter and the nuts sprinkled 
with the spiced sugar. The batter by itself is delicious 
coffee cake, served at once and hot. 

Quick Coffee Cake (Rose Mahony) 

Three tablespoons butter, 4 or 6 tablespoons sugar, 2 
eggs, 3/4 cup milk, 2 cups flour sifted with 2 teaspoons 
baking powder, y 2 teaspoon salt. Cream butter and 
sugar, add eggs beaten light, then milk, and flour last 
of all. Bake in 2 layers. Sprinkle 3/4 cup breadcrumbs, 
2 tablespoons sugar and 1 tablespoon cinnamon, mixed 
together, on top. 

Potato Flour Cake (Mrs. Martin) 

Whites of 4 eggs beaten stiff. Add y 2 cup sugar to 
whites and beat well. Add remaining l / 2 cup of sugar 
to yolks and beat well. Then mix the two and beat all 
very well. Add y 2 cup potato flour, 1 teaspoon plain 
flour, 2 teaspoons baking powder, sifted. Beat all well 
and add essence of vanilla or lemon. This makes 2 
layers. Bake about 25 minutes in moderate oven. 

Filling — Either regular butter-cream filling or banana- 
filling made by putting 2 bananas, 1 cup sugar and white 
of 1 egg in bowl and beating all well with a beating 
spoon until stiff. Then spread between layers and on 
top of cake. 

Another filling for this cake is made of jam, spread 
on while the cake is warm. (Mrs. George A. Bromley.) 

Another delicious filling is made by substituting pine- 
apples for the bananas. (S. W.) 

Feather Filling (Angelica Bromley) 

Two heaping tablespoons flour in a cup of water, stir 
well and then strain. Put on stove and cook until it 
boils. Cool and then add y 2 cup butter and y 2 cup 
pulverized sugar. Cream, and when first is cold beat 
in paste. Add l / 2 cup chopped walnuts to filling. (To 
be used with potato flour layer cake.) 



A delicious filling for a chocolate layer cake is made 
of powdered sugar creamed with milk (cold) and with 
chopped nuts beaten into the cream. This is good for 
frosting as well as filling. — (S. W.) 



38 A California Cook Book 



Minnehaha Filling (Mrs. Brownlee) 

Boil 1 cup sugar with 4 tablespoons water until it 
threads. Add white of egg beaten, Yz cup raisins and 
y 2 cup walnuts. 

Mocha Filling (Mrs. Edward F. Smith, Millbrae) 

One cupful confectioner's sugar, %. cup butter, 1 
teaspoon vanilla, 1 teaspoon cocoa. Cream, and wet with 
coffee until it will spread smoothly over the cake. This 
proportion is for a small two-layer cake, baked in jelly- 
cake tin. 

Mocha Filling (Mrs. Scott) 

Cream a fair-sized pat of unsalted butter, with a cup 
of powdered sugar, beating until extremely light. Flavor 
with lJ/2 teaspoons Turkish coffee (comes in bottles) 
and mix with beaten yolks of 2 eggs. If preferred, three 
tablespoons grated chocolate mixed with hot water can 
be used instead of the coffee. Chopped walnuts can 
be sprinkled on after spreading. 

"Fluff" (Mrs. E. R. Bromley) 

White of egg beaten with granulated sugar, and 
crushed fruit, any kind, either berries or bananas or 
pineapple. When desired a few fresh uncrushed berries 
can be placed on top as a garnish decorative touch, 
and served as shortcake. Any kind of layer cake takes 
this filling. 

Orange Filling (Mrs. Roach) 

To the juice and rind (grated) of 1 orange add enough 
powdered sugar to make stiff paste. Spread between 
layers of cake, icing top layer. 

Lemon Filling (Mrs. Roach) 

One cup sugar, yolks of 2 eggs, 1 tablespoon butter, 
juice and grated rind of 1 lemon. Put all ingredients 
in a double boiler. Stir and cook until the mixture 
thickens. 

Cake Frosting (Mrs. Roach) 

Yolks of 2 eggs well beaten, 2 tablespoons cream and 
powdered sugar enough so that it will spread nicely on 
cake. Flavor with Maple-ine, and place cut walnuts 
on top. 



A California Cook Book 39 



Best-Ever Doughnuts (Mrs. Page) 

One and one-quarter cups sugar, 2 yolks and 1 whole 
egg, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 cup sweet milk, y± teaspoon 
ginger, 4*/> cups sifted flour, 3 teaspoons baking powder. 
Leave in ice box or cold place over night. Roll quarter- 
inch thick and fry in boiling fat, but not too fast. 

Doughnuts (Mrs. Pylman) 

Three eggs, 1 cup sugar, 1/3 cup butter, 3 pints bread 
sponge. Mix with hands as soft as possible. Let rise. 
Mold again. Flour board. Roll dough about half an 
inch thick. Cut out with ring. Fry in boiling oil or 
lard, not less than half an hour. 

Doughnuts (Mrs. C. O. Cunningham, Colfax) 

One cup sugar, 1 cup sour milk, 1 egg, 1 teaspoon 
salt, 1 teaspoon baking soda, any flavoring desired. Beat 
together sugar, egg and milk, add soda dissolved in 
a little water, then add flour enough to roll, and the 
flavoring. Fry in boiling lard or oil. 

Oatmeal Cookies (Mrs. Brownlee) 

Three cups fine oatmeal, 2 cups flour, 1 cup butter 
and lard (mixed), y 2 cup hot water, 1 cup sugar, 1 small 
teaspoon soda (dissolved in hot water), pinch salt. 
Roll on floured board very thin. 

Ginger Snaps (Mrs. Brownlee) 

One large cup butter or lard, or y 2 butter and l / 2 
lard ; 1 cup brown sugar, 1 cup molasses, y 2 cup hot 
water, 1 tablespoon ginger, 1 tablespoon cinnamon, 1 
teaspoon cloves, 1 teaspoon soda dissolved in hot water, 
flour enough for stiff dough. Roll thin. 

Soft Cream Cookies (Mrs. Brownlee) 

Two eggs, 2 cups white sugar, y 2 cup butter, y 2 cup 
lard, 1 cup sour cream, 1 teaspoon soda dissolved in 
a little of the cream, flour enough for soft dough. Roll 
54 inch thick. Season with salt, and lemon or nutmeg 
flavor. 



Rocks (Letitia Flanagan) 

One and one-half cups brown sugar, 1 cup butter, 3 
eggs, 3 cups sifted flour, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, y 2 tea- 
spoon cloves, 1 teaspoon soda dissolved in hot water, 
y 2 pound currants, y 2 pound raisins, y 2 pound walnuts, 
pinch salt. 

Cookies (Mrs. W. J. McCarthy) 

One egg, 1 cup sugar, y 2 cup butter or soup fat, 3 
cups flour, % cup milk, 2 teaspoons baking powder, 
1 teaspoon vanilla. Cream butter and sugar, add egg 



40 A California Cook Book 



unbeaten to sugar and butter, and beat until light, then 
milk, and last of all flour. Mix and roll very thin. 
Bake on the top of baking-pans. 

Chocolate Wafers (Mrs. Martin) 

Cream 1 cup sugar and slice butter, stir in 2 eggs, 
mix well, then add y 2 cup chocolate and y 2 cup flour; 
stir and add y 2 cup cut nuts. These are great, and can 
be baked in a sheet and then cut in small rectangles, or 
dropped on the pan in spoonfuls. 

Mother's Chocolate Chips (Mrs. Meredith Sawyer) 

One cup white sugar, 1 cup brown sugar, 1 table- 
spoon each of butter, whisky, vanilla and molasses; 
y 2 cup chopped walnuts, J4 cup chopped raisins; 6 
tablespoons chocolate; 1 teaspoon cinnamon, y 2 tea- 
spoon each of cloves and allspice; 2y 2 cups flour; 1 
teaspoon baking powder; 3 eggs beaten together. Bake 
in large shallow pan. 

Walnut Wafers (Mrs. T. Longton) 

Two eggs, 1 cup sugar, pinch salt, 1 cup walnuts, 3 
large tablespoons flour. Drop on hot pan, y 2 teaspoonful 
at a time. These are delicious to serve with afternoon 
tea, or with ices. 

Prize Packages (Mrs. R. C. Burling) 

Butter size of large egg, % cup sugar, 1 egg, y$ cup 
milk, 2 cups flour, \y 2 teaspoons baking powder, y 2 cup 
raisins (seedless), y 2 cup walnuts (chopped). When 
ready for oven sprinkle the top with small pieces of 
butter, sugar and cinnamon. Bake in flat pan, in sheet. 
Cut in shapes and wrap each in waxed paper. 



Utensils are an important item. In a camp one can cook 
in the cans, and stir the creations with a stick, but in a well- 
equipped kitchen one should have the best utensils. Don't 
have too many, but get the best. The tools should be such as 
help the artist. Why go without them, when so easily ob- 
tainable? Don't try to do with just a few pots and pans. Get 
a number, all sizes, and see how it simplifies matters when a 
meal is to be prepared in a hurry. 



A California Cook Book 41 



ifnt (Sate* mxb Waffle 

Fine Hot Cake Recipe (Mrs. Poore) 

At night mix 2 cups sifted flour, salt, 1 tablespoon 
corn meal and enough sour milk to make stiff batter. 
Set over night. Next day add 1 teaspoon (level) soda 
in warm water. Fry on hot griddle in large cakes to 
cover whole griddle. Place butter and sugar between, 
aranging like a layer cake and cutting down and serving 
in sections like cake. 

Pancakes (Mrs. Charles Lincoln, Berkeley) 

One cup sour milk, 1 heaping cup flour, y^ teaspoon 
baking powder, J^ teaspoon soda, pinch of salt, 1 tgg 
beaten, 1 tablespoon melted butter to be added last. 

(These cakes are superlative. — S. W.) 

Waffles (Meredith Sawyer) 

Five eggs, 1% pounds flour, % pound butter, J4 
pound sugar {% cup), 1 quart milk, 1 soup spoon 
full baking powder, pinch of salt, inside of a quarter of 
vanilla bean, or few drops of extract, a teaspoon full of 
olive oil. 

Beat eggs and sugar, then add milk, then the sifted 
flour. Mix well, then add melted butter, then baking 
powder, then salt; then flavor and stir in slowly the 
olive oil. 

Note : This will be thinner than ordinary batter, but 
it's all right. 

(This recipe is copied exactly from the one given 
Mr. Sawyer by the head chef at the St. Francis Hotel. — 
S. W.) 

Batter Cakes (Judge Frank Kerrigan) 

One cup of sifted flour (one-third of this may be 
whole wheat, rye, graham or fine corn meal). Before 
mixing, sift on the flour half level teaspoon each of salt 
and soda, and one level teaspoon of baking powder. 
Mix and add one beaten egg and one tablespoon of 
melted butter. If cream, instead of milk, is used for 
mixing, omit the butter. Beat well and cook on a very 
hot griddle, very slightly greased. The bacon rind 
is best for greasing griddle. 

German Pan Cake (Mrs. Martin) 

Two eggs and a pinch of salt, beaten well with cup 
of milk. Add flour until it is thick, beating with fork. 
Then add a little more milk to thin it. Drop on well 
larded frying pan, one at a time. 



42 A California Cook Book 



Lobscouse — a nautical dish (G. T. Bromley) 

Take salt pork, corned beef, onions, carrots and 
potatoes and cut in small dice. Cook in large stew 
pot with a little water to cover. When done either 
serve as a stew or place in bake pan and brown in 
oven. Serve with hot hardtack. 

Sausages with Tomatoes, Italian Style (Mrs. Francis 
Ghiselli) 

Use linked pork sausages. Fry until brown and pour 
off dripping. Have ready a can of tomatoes. Brown 
a few onions (and a garlic clove if wished) in bottom 
of pan. Pour upon the browned onions the can of 
tomatoes (remove • garlic clove) and add a few dice 
of bell or red peppers, or else add paprika. Flavor 
with cinnamon, pepper and salt. When the tomatoes 
are well heated, add the cooked sausages and some 
peeled potatoes cut in either small or large pieces, as 
desired. When the potatoes are done the dish is ready 
to serve. It is extremely tasty. 

Vienna Sausages with Cauliflower (Miss Campbell) 

Boil the cauliflower in small pieces. Have ready 2 
cans of Vienna sausages. When the vegetable is 
cooked, place on dish with the flowers upstanding as if 
growing in a field. Place some of the small leaves 
of the cauliflower around the edges of dish. Set the 
sausages in two towers, as they come from the can 
when steamed, in the midst of the vegetable. It makes 
a most artistic appearance, and is a quickly prepared 
and palatable luncheon dish or supper dish. 

Aunt Margaret's Baked Beans (Mrs. M. Sawyer) 

One cup dry beans, 1 tablespoon dry mustard, 1 
tablespoon brown sugar, 1 teaspoon salt, pepper to taste, 
i/2 pound salt pork. Soak beans over night. Boil 
until soft. Dissolve seasoning in hot water and pour 
over beans before baking. 

Corned Beef Hash (Henry J. Crocker) 

Materials — Potatoes, onions, one tin of corned beef, 
bacon rind (or butter if obtainable), salt and pepper. 

Implements — One coffee pot (or stew-pan), one fry- 
ing pan, one hunting knife. 

The potatoes should be boiled the night before; the 
coffee pot being often called into service after the 
evening meal is over and the smokefest is on; the 
potatoes, after being well washed, are placed in the 
coffee pot, which is now filled with cold water and 
placed on the hot coals, where the water soon reaches 
a boiling point, and the potatoes show they are thor- 
oughly cooked by the bursting of their jackets — the 
water is drained off and the potatoes left in the pot 
near the fire to cool off slowly. In the morning 
the fire is lighted and the onions are peeled and then 
cut in thin rings, which are afterward cut with the 



A California Cook Book 43 



hunting knife into small sections, as if they had been 
chopped fine. A tin of corned beef is now opened and 
the contents shredded or cut fine. The frying pan is 
now placed on the fire and prepared with the bacon fat 
(or butter, if to be had) — the potatoes being peeled 
and sliced while the pan is heating — the chopped 
onions are now thoroughly cooked and placed aside, 
and after a little more grease is placed in the frying 
pan the potatoes are placed therein, stirred and thor- 
oughly seasoned with salt and pepper until they are 
well heated, then slowly add the well cooked onions 
until the hash is well browned. Serve piping hot. (This 
is camp style.) 

Beans, Georgia Style (H. C. Smith) 

Use the small white beans. Soak the quantity de- 
sired in cold water for an hour or so, and then pour off 
the water, place in fresh cold water and boil until quite 
soft, adding pork or bacon cut in small squares, onion 
cut in eighths, and a green or red pepper if liked. When 
the beans are thoroughly cooked place in a bake pan 
and bake about half an hour in the oven. Served with 
hot cornbread, or brown bread, these beans make an 
ideal supper dish. 



Cold Salmon, with Raisin Sauce 

The salmon is cooked whole, or cut in slices, and 
boiled, drained and laid on dish. For the sauce, brown 
a piece of butter in frying-pan, with a chopped onion 
and a little sugar. Soak a bit of honey-cake in l / 2 cup 
sour claret, and add to other ingredients in saucepan, 
with salt, pepper and a little ground ginger, also 2 
slices lemon, ^2 cup raisins and a bay leaf. Cook slowly 
and pour over fish. Serve cold. 

Stuffed Milt 

There are 2 veins inside the milt which must be 
taken out, and then it is scraped. To the inside is 
added soaked bread, egg, onion, chopped parsley, and 
seasoning to taste, all mixed together and then sewed 
up. This is placed in boiling soup for one-half hour, 
taken out and browned, and is ready to serve. 

Sour Lung 

Prepare the lung by first thoroughly cleaning, then 
boil until soft. Throw away water and cut lung into 
small squares. Put fat in saucepan and brown an 
onion. Add flour, a tablespoon sugar and 2 tablespoons 
vinegar. Make smooth by adding 1 cup meat stock. 
Season with ginger, pepper, salt, bay leaf and chopped 
parsley. The lung is then placed in the pan and all 
cooked together slowly for twenty minutes. 

Boiled beef can be prepared in the same way. An- 
other manner is to serve on toast. The heart chopped 
as in hash, sometimes with the lung, sometimes alone, 
is another favorite "kosher" dish. 



44 A California Cook Book 



(HtlMBt Sialyl 



Biquita Cheese (Robert Trevor) 

One pound Eastern cheese, butter size egg. Dissolve 
in double boiler. Three-quarter cup cream, 1 egg, 
cayenne pepper and paprika. Pour in glasses and let 
cool. 

Welsh Rabbit (Elliott Crews Jennings) 

Cut up some cheese into small pieces, not too fresh, 
Eastern or California preferred. Pour a little beer or 
ale into a frying pan or chafing dish, and let the cheese 
melt into it. Season with Worcestershire sauce, salt, 
pepper, paprika and tabasco sauce if liked. Have ready 
hot soda crackers or thin slices of toast and pour the 
rabbit on them. Serve immediately. 

Welsh Rarebit (Mullaly) 

Place a half pint of Bass ale in a small saucepan with 
a tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce, salt, little cayenne 
pepper, and as soon as it briskly boils add 20 ounces 
very rich, fresh, finely chopped American cheese and 
continually stir with a wooden spoon until thoroughly 
melted. Have eight fresh slices of toast on eight small 
dishes, cover with the cheese and send to the table as 
hot as possible. If wanted extra hot the dishes of 
rarebit can be placed in the oven for a few moments 
before sending to the table. (For eight persons.) 



"fflamutfT Italy** 



{{T LOATHE canned goods — never use them; fear 
1 them." Thus one has heard a housewife exclaim. 
But why ban canned products — in this State, 
where the most delicious fruits, vegetables and meats 
come in cans? Wonderful dishes can be concocted from 
cans. People who have not experimented with canned 
goods, or who consider them unwholesome, make an 
enormous mistake. Most excellent meals can be gotten 
up from cans. With canned peas, beans (string) and 
asparagus, one can make a perfect salad, and the sliced 
canned tomatoes are also fine in salads. A can of 
oxtail soup used for gravy stock metamorphoses a 
second day cut of meat into a stew or fancy roast that 
an epicure would enjoy. Tomato soup can also be 
used for gravy, either on hamburger steak or warmed 
over meat. The chili-tomato is nice on spaghetti or rice 
or raviola. A Mexican dinner can be arranged in two 
seconds with canned tamales or enchiladas, the en- 
cased ones used for garnish ; canned spaghetti and 
chili con carne. Then with a salad of string beans and 
a little fresh lettuce, the dinner is a joy throughout. 
Canned sausages are always tasty, and can be com- 
bined in all sorts of ways with vegetables. Canned 
mushrooms may not be so good as fresh, but are tasty 
in sauces. A can of boned chicken with a can of 
mushrooms can be turned into a remarkable pie, with 
creamed gravy, and a biscuit crust. 



A California Cook Book 45 



Spanish Bun — a typical Canadian recipe (Mrs. Charles 

A. Allen, Vancouver, B. C.) 

Four eggs — leave out 3 whites ; $4 cup butter, 2 
cups brown sugar, 1 cup sweet milk, 2y 2 cups flour, 3 
teaspoons baking powder, 2 teaspoons each cinnamon 
and allspice. Make frosting of the whites. 

Nut Bread (Mrs. Greenfield- McDonald, Vancouver, 

B. C.) 

Two or three eggs, 2 tablespoons sugar, 4 teaspoons 
baking powder, y 2 teaspoon salt, y 2 cup chopped wal- 
nuts. Mix dry ingredients, add 2 or 3 eggs and enough 
milk to mix like biscuits. Knead lightly and mold into 
two loaves. Let rise thirty minutes. Bake one-half 
or three-quarters hour. 

Nut Bread (Mrs. Martin) 

Three cups flour, \y 2 cup milk, £4 CU P brown sugar, 1 
cup walnuts, 1 even teaspoon salt, 4 even teaspoons 
baking powder. Sift flour, salt and baking powder 
into milk and sugar; add nuts, stir well and place in 
well greased loaf tin. Let stand ten minutes before 
baking. Bake one hour in slow oven. 

Nut Bread (Mrs. T. Longton) 

One and one-half cups white flour, y 2 cup cornmeal, 
y 2 cup graham flour, y 2 cup molasses, y 2 cup brown 
sugar, 1 cup walnuts, 1 pint sour milk, 1 teaspoon 
baking soda, y 2 teaspoon baking powder, 1 teaspoon salt. 
Bake about hour in slow oven. 

Corn and Rice Bread, to be served with Roast (Mrs. 
Meade) 

One cup cold boiled rice warmed until soft in a little 
hot milk. Pour a cup of hot milk on 1 scant cup of 
cornmeal. Add 1 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon butter, 
2 tablespoons sugar to the soft rice. Let this stand so 
the cornmeal will soften, and before baking add 1 
heaping teaspoon baking powder. Bake twenty minutes 
in hot oven. 

Biscuits (Miss Connell) 

A quart of flour, teaspoon of salt, a tablespoon of 
sugar, and 4 level teaspoons of baking powder. Sift 
all together. Work in a good tablespoon of shortening 
with a fork, and add milk enough to make workable 
dough. If sour milk is used add enough baking soda 
to correct the acidity. If just "blinkey" a few grains, 
but of clabber almost a quarter teaspoon. Roll 
out half an inch thick or more and handle as little 
as possible. They may stand five or ten minutes be- 
fore baking. Sugar is merely to get a nice even brown, 
not enough to taste, and can be left out. 



46 A California Cook Book 



Cornbread (S. W.) 

One cup white flour, 1 cup cornmeal, 2 teaspoons 
baking powder, pinch of salt, 1 tablespoon sugar, all 
sifted together; milk to make medium soft batter. If 
sour milk is used, add pinch of soda; 1 egg not beaten. 
Add a tablespoon melted butter to dry ingredients, be- 
fore adding milk. Place in very hot larded pan and 
bake about three-quarters of an hour. If more corn- 
meal is preferred, use 2 parts meal to 1 part white 
flour. If lard is used for shortening instead of butter, 
do not use quite so much. Molasses can be used in- 
stead of sugar for sweetening, if preferred. If a very 
large cornbread is wished, use 2 eggs and twice the 
quantity of above. 

Excellent Muffins (S. W.) 

Two eggs, 2 cups flour sifted twice, 1 cup milk, sweet 
or sour (if the latter, use pinch soda), 1 teaspoon 
sugar, 1 heaping teaspoon baking powder, pinch salt, 
1 tablespoon melted butter. Sift dry ingredients to- 
gether and add yolks of eggs well beaten and the milk, 
then the whites well beaten, and last of all the melted 
butter. Bake in hissing hot muffin tins about twenty 
minutes in hot oven. 

Popovers (Florence Byington, San Francisco) 

Two eggs, 1 cup milk, 1 cup flour, pinch of salt. 
Beat eggs well, add milk and salt, beat well, then add 
flour. Beat all well and place in hissing hot buttered 
pan. Bake in hot oven, diminishing heat gradually, 
for one-half hour. Do not take out of oven immedi- 
ately, but open the door for a little while first. The 
secret of successful popovers is all in the baking. 

Date Bread (Mrs. Gilmour Van Wagenen) 

Three cups graham flour, 1 cup walnuts, 1 cup dates, 
3 cups brown sugar, J / 2 teaspoon salt, lj4 cups sour 
milk, 1 teaspoon soda. Mix dry ingredients and add 
milk. 

Boston Brown Bread (Mrs. Roach) 

One cup sour milk, 1 cup sweet milk, 1 teaspoon salt, 
y 2 cup molasses, 1 teaspoon soda, y 2 cup white flour, 
3 cups graham flour. Dissolve soda in a little hot 
water and stir into molasses. Mix stiff and steam three 
or four hours. 

Equal parts of graham and white flour, and corn- 
meal, and a dash of bran, make excellent foundation 
for brownbread. (S. W.) 



A piece of sandpaper and a pumice-stone are indispensables 
in a kitchen, says Mrs. Sterling Mighels. The sandpaper will 
clean the bottom of an iron-pot, or any kind of pan, better 
than will anything else. An ordinary paint brush, the flat 
kind, is excellent for dishwashing instead of a mop or rag, 
says the same authority. 



A California Cook Book 47 



3x\x Sty* Pantrjj 

Orange Marmalade (Mrs. Mayo) 

Twelve large oranges, 4 lemons. Slice fruit quite 
thin; add 1 quart cold water to every pound of fruit. 
Let it stand until next day. Then boil slowly, un- 
covered, until the fruit is very tender, after which let 
stand again until next day. Then to every pound of 
fruit add Y\ pound of sugar, and boil until it jells. Put 
a maraschino cherry in each glass, to make it look more 
attractive. 



For Quick Marmalade 

Six oranges, 2 lemons, 3 quarts water. Let these boil 
forty-five minutes, then add 3 quarts sugar, and let 
boil until it jells. It will require about two hours for 
the last boiling. 

Grape Fruit Marmalade (Mrs. G. A. Bromley) 

One lemon, 1 orange, 1 grape fruit. Cut all up fine. 
After fruit is cut up, measure cup fruit to 3 cups of 
water and let stand over night. Next day boil four 
minutes and let stand again over night. Then measure 
a cup of fruit to cup of sugar, then boil from two and 
one-half to three hours. 

Jack Horner (Mrs. G. A. Bromley) 

Five pounds currants. Strain as for jelly. Three 
pounds oranges, prepared as for marmalade. Two 
pounds raisins, 5 pounds sugar. Boil twenty to thirty 
minutes. 

Mince Meat (Mrs. Brownlee) 

Two pounds lean beef, 1 pound suet, 3 pounds 
raisins, 2 pounds currants, 4 chopped apples, 1 lemon, 
orange and citron peel, 2 cups brown sugar and grated 
rind of 2 lemons, 1 quart brandy, 2 oranges, 1 quart 
boiled cider, 2 tablespoons salt, 2 nutmegs, 1 tablespoon 
cinnamon, 1 teaspoon clove and mace. 

Green Tomato Sauce (Mrs. Robert Barker) 

Slice 1 peck tomatoes into jar, sprinkling salt over 
each layer. Let stand twenty-four hours. Drain off 
liquor and add 1 teaspoon each of ginger, allspice, clove, 
mace, cinnamon and horseradish, 3 large or 12 small 
red peppers, 3 large onions, 1 cup brown sugar, cover 
with vinegar. Boil slowly three hours. 

Chili Sauce (Mrs. William Key-worth) 

Twenty-four large ripe tomatoes, 6 large onions, 2 
large peppers, 8 tablespoons brown sugar, 2 table- 
spoons cinnamon, 4 tablespoons salt, 4 cups vinegar, 
pinch soda. Boil until thick. 

Use a good white soap for dishwashing; it saves the hands. 

In using liquid veneer for dusting, always be careful to 
protect the hands with gloves, as the veneer is very hard upon 
the delicate flesh, filling the palms with black stains, and 
making the finger-nails brittle. 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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